It seems sad to have to leave Portugal so soon,but this trip's schedule must be kept on the rails.I joined the Portuguese motorway that I battled so hard with my sat nav to avoid yesterday.There are no toll booths on Portuguese motorways,you buy tickets in advance or sign up online,like the London congestion charge.Not every section of motorway is tolled, but I was taking no chances,not being bothered to set up an account for the sake of a few miles.After further research I realised that I was safe and from here on this road there were no tolls before the border.On reaching the Spanish border the motorway abruptly stops,to change to a single lane road going through small towns.Perhaps the Spanish have got it right ,though, for I seem to be about the only vehicle on it this morning.
Not only the road changes but the scenery.Seemingly immediately on crossing the border the craggy hills stop and the wide open gently rolling spaces of Castile & Leon begin.
Soon I reach the dual carriageway and the 240 km to Avila fly by.I think I went for 20km without seeing a single vehicle on my side of the carriageway.Where are they all? Maybe they can't afford fuel,but at 85 pence per litre I doubt that can be the reason.
I recall that Cervantes lived in this region when he wrote " Don Quixote" :the windmills have all gone now but he would recognise the scene ,for I can see huge windfarms on every horizon.He would have to tilt at those instead.
Talking of satnavs,I am getting exasperated by "Serena",my satnav voice whose attempts to pronounce the foreign streets and towns is incomprehensible, something like Stephen Hawking trying to learn Swahili.I think I will have to change to "Kate" ,who doesn't bother with the street names.
Not only the road changes but the scenery.Seemingly immediately on crossing the border the craggy hills stop and the wide open gently rolling spaces of Castile & Leon begin.
Soon I reach the dual carriageway and the 240 km to Avila fly by.I think I went for 20km without seeing a single vehicle on my side of the carriageway.Where are they all? Maybe they can't afford fuel,but at 85 pence per litre I doubt that can be the reason.
I recall that Cervantes lived in this region when he wrote " Don Quixote" :the windmills have all gone now but he would recognise the scene ,for I can see huge windfarms on every horizon.He would have to tilt at those instead.
Talking of satnavs,I am getting exasperated by "Serena",my satnav voice whose attempts to pronounce the foreign streets and towns is incomprehensible, something like Stephen Hawking trying to learn Swahili.I think I will have to change to "Kate" ,who doesn't bother with the street names.
Avila Avila is famous for its walls,which have world heritage status.They are amazing, and about half of the circuit can be walked.Actually there's not a whole lot else in the town,which is quite small, although pleasant.I found a place for lunch, which encouragingly had some local families eating, and one course of the meal was "patatas revolcanas",apparently a local speciality .This is a spicy mash of potato and beans,topped with pork crackling. Feeling pretty full after this foray into the rather stodgy tasting menu I then walked lunch off with a walk along the walls.
Patatas Revolcanas 
Avila I was parked up at the recommended camper stop in town,the coach park just below the walls at the back of the Police station.When I arrived the was one coach parked in this vast area,and a Dutch campervan.There was a freezing wind,even though it was a bright sunny day.All that was missing was the tumble weed.Another campervan arrived,took one look and left.When I returned from the walls the Dutch people had also cleared off.The crew looked at this for a while,then said "this sucks".A snap decision was made to head onwards the 79km to El Escorial,where there is a proper site "Camping El Escorial". This I had been intending to use the next night after visiting the royal monastery and palace but it seemed the right choice to bring it forwards in the itinerary.On leaving Avila ,immediately there was ridge of mountains to cross.It's funny,but the road map and the satnav give no warning of these changes in terrain,which come unexpectedly.This looks bleakly beautiful,reminiscent of the highlands of Scotland.The summit is at 1450 metres,but there is no snow,although I can see it in the distance on higher mountains.Dropping down from the hills on the other side I am amazed by a sudden view of El Escorial,a little town dwarfed by the absolutely massive structure of the palace. On reaching the town the satnav takes me through the gate and across the main courtyard,a little surprising but apparently allowed.
The palace of El Escorial A couple of km down the road,at the campsite itself,the lack of security in the Avila carpark is put into perspective by the double barrier and the uniformed security man who drives ahead of me to deposit me next to the only other camper in the resort,which inexplicably seems abandoned,though hooked up to the electricity.However here are all facilities.I get laundry done,which is needed as after a week some items of apparel were getting a bit rancid. And I'll visit the palace in the morning.
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