As I set off this morning I was uncertain of my ultimate destination; there are not many campsites in Albania(perhaps 8), and most are near the coast. I was, however, heading for the eastern border, with Macedonia, and there was just one camper site I could find on my route, just north of Tirana, near the airport.
I asked at the campsite before I set off whether there was a better route out through Shkoder, not relishing a repeat of yesterday's drive down the main street, and was shown on a map a way around the suburbs that was apparently much easier. In fact, when I arrived at the way, it was actually signposted to Tirana anyway. Thus I avoided the congested roundabouts and mad cyclists of the city centre I encountered yesterday. Knowing now to expect the unexpected on the roads made driving seem a lot easier anyway,and I felt much less nervous. There was much I could have potentially done near Shkoder and Lake Skodra, the most appealing being to take a ferry trip up Lake Koman, a river gorge flooded by a dam, by which you can travel many miles deep into the mountains to villages previously virtually unreachable,almost to the border with Kosovo. In the mountains there are apparently spectacular hikes based from the villages of Theth and Valbone. Doing this,as interesting as it would have been, would not have advanced my journey in the direction I had set myself ,so I headed on my way.
Inevitably before long I was stopped by one of the many police roadside checks. On this occasion they turned out to be checking goods vans and I was quickly waved on my way once they realised I was a camper. I saw quite a few police checks, usually in the process of inspecting the papers of some driver who presumably had driven too fast(many take no notice of the quite slow speed limits, usually 50-60kpm)I suppose given such erratic driving controlling their speed is the only way of reducing fatalities. I stopped and had a look at the site north of Tirana which was after 80km(one and half hours),but it was in a very unappealing area,with nothing to look at,and it was only midday,so I decided to head on the further 150 km (3 hours)to the Macedonian border.This would involve driving through the middle of Tirana but by now I was getting the hang of the driving skills needed.
Actually the condition of the roads was very good generally, just a few short areas where there were random deep potholes. Tirana was not surprisingly quite challenging,however. There is no ringroad, although several motorways are nearing completion. The way through is not too well signposted but there were some markers, and I relied heavily on my satnav, which didn’t let me down. There were 2 or three lanes of jostling traffic, slowly moving through, but in this city significantly fewer cyclists. I got in behind a gravel lorry which seemed to be going my way, and luckily was able to tailgate it most of the way through the city, guessing correctly that no one would try jostle into its path. On leaving Tirana, I was able after a bit of hilly country to join an unfinished motorway with one of its two tunnels open through a mountain, which saved a climb, and then was able to travel more quickly toward the city of Elbesan.
I asked at the campsite before I set off whether there was a better route out through Shkoder, not relishing a repeat of yesterday's drive down the main street, and was shown on a map a way around the suburbs that was apparently much easier. In fact, when I arrived at the way, it was actually signposted to Tirana anyway. Thus I avoided the congested roundabouts and mad cyclists of the city centre I encountered yesterday. Knowing now to expect the unexpected on the roads made driving seem a lot easier anyway,and I felt much less nervous. There was much I could have potentially done near Shkoder and Lake Skodra, the most appealing being to take a ferry trip up Lake Koman, a river gorge flooded by a dam, by which you can travel many miles deep into the mountains to villages previously virtually unreachable,almost to the border with Kosovo. In the mountains there are apparently spectacular hikes based from the villages of Theth and Valbone. Doing this,as interesting as it would have been, would not have advanced my journey in the direction I had set myself ,so I headed on my way.
Inevitably before long I was stopped by one of the many police roadside checks. On this occasion they turned out to be checking goods vans and I was quickly waved on my way once they realised I was a camper. I saw quite a few police checks, usually in the process of inspecting the papers of some driver who presumably had driven too fast(many take no notice of the quite slow speed limits, usually 50-60kpm)I suppose given such erratic driving controlling their speed is the only way of reducing fatalities. I stopped and had a look at the site north of Tirana which was after 80km(one and half hours),but it was in a very unappealing area,with nothing to look at,and it was only midday,so I decided to head on the further 150 km (3 hours)to the Macedonian border.This would involve driving through the middle of Tirana but by now I was getting the hang of the driving skills needed.
Actually the condition of the roads was very good generally, just a few short areas where there were random deep potholes. Tirana was not surprisingly quite challenging,however. There is no ringroad, although several motorways are nearing completion. The way through is not too well signposted but there were some markers, and I relied heavily on my satnav, which didn’t let me down. There were 2 or three lanes of jostling traffic, slowly moving through, but in this city significantly fewer cyclists. I got in behind a gravel lorry which seemed to be going my way, and luckily was able to tailgate it most of the way through the city, guessing correctly that no one would try jostle into its path. On leaving Tirana, I was able after a bit of hilly country to join an unfinished motorway with one of its two tunnels open through a mountain, which saved a climb, and then was able to travel more quickly toward the city of Elbesan.
In the hills above Elbesan From Elbesan I turned east,and this time there was a slow and steady ascent through several small towns towards the pass into Macedonia at an altitude of 2000metres.This was a very scenic area, with hillsides dotted with little farms, with terraced fields, and in the background snow-capped mountains, in the foreground mountain rivers. Despite the snow on the mountains the temperature has been a steady 25 degrees for the last couple of days. All along the way there were odd sights, such as the three horses being transported on the back of a flatbed truck,or the car carrying a big table on its roof,with the driver holding it on with one arm,the passenger with another.Or the shepherd tending his dozen sheep while they grazed on the verge, or an old woman with a cow on a halter as it did likewise. I think that despite the looming modernisation the old ways die hard. One striking feature of Albanian roads is the large number of pedestrians. In seemingly the most remote spots there are groups of people walking, often where there is no safe path ,just a metal barrier. I presume that they are either heading to the nearest furgon pick-up spot, or simply just walking to their daily tasks.In fact quite a few people have tried to flag me down,presumably mistaking me for a furgon.
Dotted about by the roadside, particularly prevalent where there was any bridge, or road junction, were many more of the mushroom-like bunkers.
Dotted about by the roadside, particularly prevalent where there was any bridge, or road junction, were many more of the mushroom-like bunkers.
 An Albanian shepherd |  A nice looking motel on a hairpin bend on the road up to the Macedonian border |
I reached the border crossing to Macedonia at a place called QafeThane(which I thought should be a the name of a character in Star Wars).The leaving of Albania was my tensest border crossing yet. The border post seemed very quiet .Strangely ,when I pulled up behind the couple of cars waiting to go through, I was directed to back up, drive into an unmanned lane, then go on foot to present my papers at the booth where the cars were going through. While waiting here behind a couple of pedestrians who had appeared from nowhere ,I realised I couldn't see my van properly behind the checkpoint booth in the other lane where I had left it. I spotted another pedestrian coming around from the back of my van and realised that I should have locked it. I nipped back to do so but seemed to arouse suspicion by doing this,as a border guard ran after me to see what I was doing.
Having re-joined the small queue and had passport, driving licence, vehicle registration document all thoroughly examined, after a discussion between the border guards, I was directed using sign language to get back in the van and reverse out over to another building .I quickly spotted that this was the inspection garage, and I was waved inside, and onto the inspection pit. Seeing a keen Alsatian chained up in the corner I realised I was going to get the full treatment with the drugs dog.At this stage I started bitterly regretting that I had not locked my van immediately I got out of it, and wondered in mounting panic what the man whom I had seen come round from the back of the van, had been doing there. The dog came on board and had a good nose round and fortunately seemed very disinterested.Then I had to open all my cupboards, bonnet etc, while someone got down in the pit and had a look underneath ,although other than just poking a few contents they didn’t take anything out. In the end I think the two policemen became more interested in what everything was, and were particularly impressed I had a toilet on board. They were actually very friendly, and it seems I had aroused suspicion by being a single male, who had spent just one night in Albania when “most English stay 4 or 5 days”. So I was spared the rubber gloves treatment. I finally was allowed to drive forwards, and across the Albanian border : the Macedonians at their post weren’t at all interested in me. I won't leave my van unlocked in such situations again!
Having re-joined the small queue and had passport, driving licence, vehicle registration document all thoroughly examined, after a discussion between the border guards, I was directed using sign language to get back in the van and reverse out over to another building .I quickly spotted that this was the inspection garage, and I was waved inside, and onto the inspection pit. Seeing a keen Alsatian chained up in the corner I realised I was going to get the full treatment with the drugs dog.At this stage I started bitterly regretting that I had not locked my van immediately I got out of it, and wondered in mounting panic what the man whom I had seen come round from the back of the van, had been doing there. The dog came on board and had a good nose round and fortunately seemed very disinterested.Then I had to open all my cupboards, bonnet etc, while someone got down in the pit and had a look underneath ,although other than just poking a few contents they didn’t take anything out. In the end I think the two policemen became more interested in what everything was, and were particularly impressed I had a toilet on board. They were actually very friendly, and it seems I had aroused suspicion by being a single male, who had spent just one night in Albania when “most English stay 4 or 5 days”. So I was spared the rubber gloves treatment. I finally was allowed to drive forwards, and across the Albanian border : the Macedonians at their post weren’t at all interested in me. I won't leave my van unlocked in such situations again!
I had to travel only 10km on in Macedonia to reach my planned destination, a little campsite called Camping Rino, on the shore of Lake Ohrid, which is at an altitude of about 700 metres. The lake is another massive one, 30 km long and very deep, and again like Lake Skadar, a third of it is Albanian. I parked up on the little camping ground , which is a small lawn at the back of a bar/restaurant the family have converted from what must have been a garage or outbuilding. The lawn looks as if it could take 6 campervans (although this night there were only two of us)and is right on the lakeside. The family home is actually the other side of the road .
"Camping Rino",near Struga, Lake Ohrid
Immediately I was met by Pimi, a young man who runs this place with his parents. He was clad in white shirt and black bow-tie and spoke excellent English(and German)He hospitably offered me a coffee or a raki. There is just one other van with a couple from Germany here, and apparently I am the 2nd guest from the UK this year. The Germans are in their 70’s and seem to be doing more or less the reverse route to me. They speak minimal English, which I found odd but have already noticed that more elderly type of Germans cant be guaranteed to speak the English that I would expect their younger compatriots to be able to do. Perhaps it is because they come from the former East Germany ? He seemed to take pride in having done all of his journey without a satnav ,devices he seemed to hold in great contempt. (His English was just up to saying "Garmin, Pah !,Tom-Tom-Pah!").My German was up to understanding the discussion they had between themselves during which they expressed surprise at meeting an English traveller here.
As they were on the way towards Albania I did offer to give them the £10 worth of Albanian currency that I had left, as I would not be able to change it, but they reacted with such horror to the suggestion that I might as well have been offering them marijuana ! It seemed that not only were they determined to manage without a satnav, but they also had a plan to pay for everything everywhere in Euros.
I had a good meal in the little restaurant, which Pimi brought across the road from the house wrapped in foil .I was not the only guest as the bar does also seem to double as evening haunt for a group of locals, who are all very friendly and all seem to speak a bit of German but no English(although the owner is fluent in both)and the TV was on, showing a David Attenborough programme(dubbed in Macedonian!)
As the back of van is just 6 feet from the water I am hoping the Lake Ohrid frogs are quieter than the Lake Shkodra ones, which chirruped away all last night on the lakeshore.
As they were on the way towards Albania I did offer to give them the £10 worth of Albanian currency that I had left, as I would not be able to change it, but they reacted with such horror to the suggestion that I might as well have been offering them marijuana ! It seemed that not only were they determined to manage without a satnav, but they also had a plan to pay for everything everywhere in Euros.
I had a good meal in the little restaurant, which Pimi brought across the road from the house wrapped in foil .I was not the only guest as the bar does also seem to double as evening haunt for a group of locals, who are all very friendly and all seem to speak a bit of German but no English(although the owner is fluent in both)and the TV was on, showing a David Attenborough programme(dubbed in Macedonian!)
As the back of van is just 6 feet from the water I am hoping the Lake Ohrid frogs are quieter than the Lake Shkodra ones, which chirruped away all last night on the lakeshore.
A mosque in the distance across Lake Ohrid
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