The Reisenrad With another day in Vienna,I hit the palaces hard.
But first, on my way into the city I stopped to look at the now iconic giant Ferris wheel, the Reisenrad,(literally-“wheel journey”)in the Prater amusement park. This was built in 1897,and has featured in such films as the Third Man, and the James Bond film The Living Daylights. Its riveted metal structure has an Eiffel Tower quality about it, and its old fashioned gondolas are unique.
The Vienna public transport system seems to work on an honesty system. Although I had bought a 2 day pass, there are no ticket barriers nor any visible ticket inspectors on any of the tube trains (U-bahn) or trams(S-bahn).Vienna is actually very walkable. Most of the sights are within the Ringstrasse and one can walk the 2km diameter of the ring easily, helped by the fact that the core of major shopping streets in the centre of the ring are pedestrianised. All the shops were shut yesterday for the bank holiday,unlike in England,but were open today and the crowds were out.
But first, on my way into the city I stopped to look at the now iconic giant Ferris wheel, the Reisenrad,(literally-“wheel journey”)in the Prater amusement park. This was built in 1897,and has featured in such films as the Third Man, and the James Bond film The Living Daylights. Its riveted metal structure has an Eiffel Tower quality about it, and its old fashioned gondolas are unique.
The Vienna public transport system seems to work on an honesty system. Although I had bought a 2 day pass, there are no ticket barriers nor any visible ticket inspectors on any of the tube trains (U-bahn) or trams(S-bahn).Vienna is actually very walkable. Most of the sights are within the Ringstrasse and one can walk the 2km diameter of the ring easily, helped by the fact that the core of major shopping streets in the centre of the ring are pedestrianised. All the shops were shut yesterday for the bank holiday,unlike in England,but were open today and the crowds were out.
My first port of call was just outside the ring,to the Upper and Lower Belvederes.The Upper Belvedere is a grand Baroque summer palace built by Prinz Eugen(Prince Eugene of Savoy)who was the Commander of the Imperial Austrian forces in the War of the Spanish succession and partnered the Duke of Marlborough to victories over the French at Blenheim, Ramilles, Oudenaard and Malplaquet.It was completed in 1722,and gives The Duke of Marlborough’s Blenheim Palace a run for its money. The Lower Belevedere, connected to the Upper by an area of formal garden and parterres, is a slighter smaller affair ,but completed a bit earlier, in 1716.Wikipedia tells me that Blenheim palace was built at the same time,1705-1722
The Upper Belevedere,Prince Eugene of Savoy's summer palace
 The Upper Belvedere, as seen from the Lower |  The Lower Belevedere |
Both Belvederes have been used for other things in their time and have no original artifacts remaining but the grandeur of the rooms,with painted walls and ceilings,remains,and both are now art museums.In many ways the buildings outdo the art,but there are some good pieces among the collection,which is heavy on Klimts,and has “The Kiss” ,one of his better known ones, also David’s well known portrait of Napoleon.Not being an expert on Klimt,I was interested to see that not all his pictures were of the semi-abstract gold attired figures,but he seems to have had a “Monet Period” also.
 The Kiss ,by Gustav Klimt |  Napoleon at the St Bernard Pass, by David |
The Stadtpalais Being a glutton for punishment I bought the de-luxe ticket that also gained entry to Prince Eugene’s Winter Palace,or Stadtpalais,a couple of km away in the centre of town. Why he needed two, I’m not sure. This has recently been wrested from the finance ministry (that must have been hard) and restored. The rooms have original wall paintings depicting all the great victories, but to my mind were spoiled by having big Conceptual Modern Art pieces in each of the rooms also.
Finally,I had time to go round the Hofberg Palace,which was the Hapsburg Emperors' town palace, as opposed to their summer palace the Schonbrunn.The state apartments were on show,and were mainly as left by Franz Joseph and Empress Elizabeth(Sisi).Included was the ‘Sisi Museum’ which reinforced my view that she and Princess Di were similarly victims of the pressures of public life. One of the most impressive things was the many rooms needed to put the massive Imperial silver and porcelain dinner services on display.Part of the palace includes the Spanish Riding School but I passed at the chance to pay £30 to see a practice performance(standing room only).
Finally,I had time to go round the Hofberg Palace,which was the Hapsburg Emperors' town palace, as opposed to their summer palace the Schonbrunn.The state apartments were on show,and were mainly as left by Franz Joseph and Empress Elizabeth(Sisi).Included was the ‘Sisi Museum’ which reinforced my view that she and Princess Di were similarly victims of the pressures of public life. One of the most impressive things was the many rooms needed to put the massive Imperial silver and porcelain dinner services on display.Part of the palace includes the Spanish Riding School but I passed at the chance to pay £30 to see a practice performance(standing room only).
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