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1.The Beginning-choosing the van
On a rainy morning in April 2014 at a Bristol industrial estate...my self-build campervan conversion story begins! Courtesy of City Motors, one Renault Master ,Long wheel base, Medium roof height van "Special Edition LM35dci 120 Extra". So, no ,not actually a 'Transit' to get lost in, after all ! |
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!How to choose which white van to convert to a camper?
The van was to be designed for my 6 month road trip round the whole of Europe during a 6-month sabbatical from work in 2015.Although I planned to travel alone I wanted a legacy after the trip which would also accommodate my wife as well, for future trips.
I was going to need a van large enough to contain all the equipment (cooking, fridge, shower, toilet)to allow free camping without facilities in streets and car parks if necessary ,and small enough not to cause challenges driving on minor roads or narrow streets. A van with a length of about 6m seemed to fit the bill here, thus not too hard to manoeuvre and park (and 6m is a a useful cut-off length for certain ferry booking price structures.)
I wanted something I could stand up in comfortably, without the hassle of needing to lift a roof up and down.
It needed to be bog-standard white(both for anonymity/stealth ,and to be cooler in hot weather)
The choice is not as wide as you might think. A Ford Transit was the original inspiration(hence the title of the website) -but I discovered that If you want something you can stand up in , then a Transit turns out not to be much use, as they have a high floor, hence not sufficient headroom(unless you go for the ultra-high top). Renault Masters, Opel(Vauxhall) Movanos and Nissan Interstars are all the same van, made in the Renault factory. Even the medium height versions have good headroom (about 1.9 metres). You see a lot of Renault Master minibuses and ambulances about-presumably for this reason. I hoped that it should also have good parts availability in Europe?,... we'll wait and see on that one.
The Special Edition Extra I bought comes with reversing sensors, really handy for someone not used to reversing a long wheelbase van, and also aircon.... surprisingly rare in white vans and could come in handy in hotter climes.
The professional van convertor's favourite ,I later learnt, is actually the Fiat Ducato/Peugeot Boxer(again ,one and the same van),as they have a marginally wider loadspace area and you can just fit a 6 foot bed crossways across the van . Another advantage of the Ducato is that the spare wheel is slung under the chassis as a standard. The pre-2010 panel van version of the Master which I have bought comes with it strapped in the load area*,and I had to later have it specially underslung but this was far from perfect as there wasn't an ideal location......and later led to a disaster in France when it slipped backwards and severed the brake fluid pipe.
(* the newer post 2010 Master version has an underslung spare as standard)
The third van type available is the Mercedes Sprinter/Volkswagen Crafter, again the both essentially same van, and has a reputation of premium Germanic quality , popular, but a little more pricey than its competitors.
Anyway, a suitable Renault Master turned up, locally, from a reliable main dealer ,"one careful owner" ,70,000 miles on the clock and just 3 years old, so we were off...............
The van was to be designed for my 6 month road trip round the whole of Europe during a 6-month sabbatical from work in 2015.Although I planned to travel alone I wanted a legacy after the trip which would also accommodate my wife as well, for future trips.
I was going to need a van large enough to contain all the equipment (cooking, fridge, shower, toilet)to allow free camping without facilities in streets and car parks if necessary ,and small enough not to cause challenges driving on minor roads or narrow streets. A van with a length of about 6m seemed to fit the bill here, thus not too hard to manoeuvre and park (and 6m is a a useful cut-off length for certain ferry booking price structures.)
I wanted something I could stand up in comfortably, without the hassle of needing to lift a roof up and down.
It needed to be bog-standard white(both for anonymity/stealth ,and to be cooler in hot weather)
The choice is not as wide as you might think. A Ford Transit was the original inspiration(hence the title of the website) -but I discovered that If you want something you can stand up in , then a Transit turns out not to be much use, as they have a high floor, hence not sufficient headroom(unless you go for the ultra-high top). Renault Masters, Opel(Vauxhall) Movanos and Nissan Interstars are all the same van, made in the Renault factory. Even the medium height versions have good headroom (about 1.9 metres). You see a lot of Renault Master minibuses and ambulances about-presumably for this reason. I hoped that it should also have good parts availability in Europe?,... we'll wait and see on that one.
The Special Edition Extra I bought comes with reversing sensors, really handy for someone not used to reversing a long wheelbase van, and also aircon.... surprisingly rare in white vans and could come in handy in hotter climes.
The professional van convertor's favourite ,I later learnt, is actually the Fiat Ducato/Peugeot Boxer(again ,one and the same van),as they have a marginally wider loadspace area and you can just fit a 6 foot bed crossways across the van . Another advantage of the Ducato is that the spare wheel is slung under the chassis as a standard. The pre-2010 panel van version of the Master which I have bought comes with it strapped in the load area*,and I had to later have it specially underslung but this was far from perfect as there wasn't an ideal location......and later led to a disaster in France when it slipped backwards and severed the brake fluid pipe.
(* the newer post 2010 Master version has an underslung spare as standard)
The third van type available is the Mercedes Sprinter/Volkswagen Crafter, again the both essentially same van, and has a reputation of premium Germanic quality , popular, but a little more pricey than its competitors.
Anyway, a suitable Renault Master turned up, locally, from a reliable main dealer ,"one careful owner" ,70,000 miles on the clock and just 3 years old, so we were off...............
2. Registration and Insurance considerations
I am now a White Van Man, and proud of it!
I realised there is much to consider in the area of insurance and also regarding registration with the DVLA.
Despite the bad reputation of white van man as a driver ,white vans are relatively cheap to insure as statistically they are actually less likely to have an accident than a private car.
There are some issues when deciding to insure a self-build campervan as you will be(hopefully!) turning it from a goods vehicle into a campervan (or "motor caravan" in DVLA parlance),over a number of months. You need to insure with one of the specialist insurers who factor in this gradual change in use . Several are found easily on the internet.
I got a no hassle quote from Shield Total Insurance https://www.shieldtotalinsurance.co.uk/ , for a price cheaper than my family car, including cover for 3 months per year anywhere in Europe*, with Europe wide breakdown cover included*.Extensions to these time periods are easily obtained but you just need to pay an additional premium.3 months per year should suit nicely as I plan to be in Europe for part of this insurance year, and part of next.
*(NB this was pre-Brexit, when any EU domestic insurance covered the bare minimum legal insurance, (i.e third party damage ) automatically in all other member states. Things may change on this .
Another issue that only became apparent later was that while this (fully comprehensive) insurance did allow for driving in non EU European countries so long as you warned the insurers and paid a small additional fee -and a "Green Card" was provided for me by the company-the breakdown cover did not extend to some countries outside the EU . I then had to buy an additional European breakdown policy from the AA which did cover a number of non-EU countries (such as Montenegro, Serbia, Albania etc ) ,as well as the EU.
Having a Green Card was vital when driving outside the EU:I had my papers checked at several police roadside checkpoints and borders, notably in Bosnia and Albania, and my Green Card (indicating adequate insurance cover was in place )was scrutinised closely alongside my international driving licence, a legal requirement in most non-EU countries.
The only issue is that the insurance policy from Shield stipulates that my conversion must be completed in 3 months, with photographic evidence. "Complete" means being re-registered by the DVLA as a "motor caravan", and for this one needs certain minimum requirements to differentiate your conversion from an ordinary white van that you might simply camp in the back of.
There actually seem to be some other compelling advantages for getting your van re-classified anyway:
The following is lifted from www.campervanlife.com/building/legal
Why re-register as a "Motor Caravan"? Although you do not legally need to re-register a campervan conversion, here are the benefits of doing so:-
The one thing that I would add to this is that very occasionally campsites of the smarter type might get a bit shirty if you turn up in what looks basically like a white van, and ask you to prove that you are registered as a motorhome. This has actually only happened to me once(in Finland)-and even then I didn't need to show documentary evidence.
So, for a vehicle to qualify as a 'Motor Caravan' in the eyes of the DVLA the following permanent fixtures must be present, and you have to send photographic proof of compliance to the DVLA with the re-registration application:-
DVLA stipulations relating to re-registration as a motor caravan
Wow! ,3 months to completion sounds pretty optimistic to me ,but that's the challenge............At least the van's got some rear doors and a sliding side door already so that's item number 2 covered !
I am now a White Van Man, and proud of it!
I realised there is much to consider in the area of insurance and also regarding registration with the DVLA.
Despite the bad reputation of white van man as a driver ,white vans are relatively cheap to insure as statistically they are actually less likely to have an accident than a private car.
There are some issues when deciding to insure a self-build campervan as you will be(hopefully!) turning it from a goods vehicle into a campervan (or "motor caravan" in DVLA parlance),over a number of months. You need to insure with one of the specialist insurers who factor in this gradual change in use . Several are found easily on the internet.
I got a no hassle quote from Shield Total Insurance https://www.shieldtotalinsurance.co.uk/ , for a price cheaper than my family car, including cover for 3 months per year anywhere in Europe*, with Europe wide breakdown cover included*.Extensions to these time periods are easily obtained but you just need to pay an additional premium.3 months per year should suit nicely as I plan to be in Europe for part of this insurance year, and part of next.
*(NB this was pre-Brexit, when any EU domestic insurance covered the bare minimum legal insurance, (i.e third party damage ) automatically in all other member states. Things may change on this .
Another issue that only became apparent later was that while this (fully comprehensive) insurance did allow for driving in non EU European countries so long as you warned the insurers and paid a small additional fee -and a "Green Card" was provided for me by the company-the breakdown cover did not extend to some countries outside the EU . I then had to buy an additional European breakdown policy from the AA which did cover a number of non-EU countries (such as Montenegro, Serbia, Albania etc ) ,as well as the EU.
Having a Green Card was vital when driving outside the EU:I had my papers checked at several police roadside checkpoints and borders, notably in Bosnia and Albania, and my Green Card (indicating adequate insurance cover was in place )was scrutinised closely alongside my international driving licence, a legal requirement in most non-EU countries.
The only issue is that the insurance policy from Shield stipulates that my conversion must be completed in 3 months, with photographic evidence. "Complete" means being re-registered by the DVLA as a "motor caravan", and for this one needs certain minimum requirements to differentiate your conversion from an ordinary white van that you might simply camp in the back of.
There actually seem to be some other compelling advantages for getting your van re-classified anyway:
The following is lifted from www.campervanlife.com/building/legal
Why re-register as a "Motor Caravan"? Although you do not legally need to re-register a campervan conversion, here are the benefits of doing so:-
- Cheaper Insurance - Generally leisure vehicles such as Campervans are cheaper to insure than panel vans. This is because they generally have fewer claims, do fewer miles and are not used for commercial use. Keep in mind that you can still get your self-build insured as a Campervan even if the vehicle is registered as a panel van. Campervan insurance is generally 10% - 50% cheaper than van insurance.
- Contents Insurance - Insurance for vehicles registered as Campervans generally includes better contents insurance than panel vans. This is because a Campervan tends to contain personal belongings such as mobile phone, laptops, jewellery, etc. (Whereas a panel van typically contains tools and parts for commercial use).
- Might be able to travel faster - Goods vehicles (e.g. panel vans as opposed to car-derived vans)are restricted to just 50 mph on single lane roads in the UK as opposed to the 60 mph national sped limit for cars .On Dual Carriageways the legal limit is 60 mph as opposed to 70mph for cars. But if your vehicle is registered as a motor caravan the limit increases to the same speed as cars i.e. 60 mph on single lane roads and 70 mph on a dual carriageway .(All other speed limits remain the same). It is important to note that vehicles with a maximum UNLADEN weight over 3050 kg have no change in speed limit when re-registering as a motor caravan. As my 3500 kg Max LADEN weight van is under 3050 kg UNLADEN weight I will be able to go at the same speed as cars if I re-register.
- Cheaper and less demanding MOT - Class VII vehicles (between 3000 kg and 3500 kg) registered as Campervans come under the cheaper and less restrictive Class IV MOT rules.
- Might get cheaper ferry prices - Travelling on a ferry is typically cheaper for a Campervan or Motorhome than a commercial van. Most ferry companies look at a converted Campervan and are happy for it to pay the cheaper Campervan price. However, a few ferry companies will use the DVLA log book classification to determine whether to price the vehicle as a commercial vehicle or not.
- Might get cheaper tolls - Bridge tolls in the UK for Campervans are usually the same as for cars. N.B. European motorway tolls are classed on the height of the vehicle ,not the registration,3 M height being the cut-off for the next incrementally higher charge in France,1.3 M in Italy ,etc, etc
The one thing that I would add to this is that very occasionally campsites of the smarter type might get a bit shirty if you turn up in what looks basically like a white van, and ask you to prove that you are registered as a motorhome. This has actually only happened to me once(in Finland)-and even then I didn't need to show documentary evidence.
So, for a vehicle to qualify as a 'Motor Caravan' in the eyes of the DVLA the following permanent fixtures must be present, and you have to send photographic proof of compliance to the DVLA with the re-registration application:-
DVLA stipulations relating to re-registration as a motor caravan
- Sleeping Accommodation
- There must be a bed with a minimum length of 6ft (or 180cms)
- The bed must be an integral part of the vehicle living accommodation area
- The bed must be permanent or converted from seats (the bed can fold away during the day)
- The bed fixtures must be secured directly to the vehicle floor and/or side walls, unless it is over the drivers cab compartment.
- Door
- There must be a horizontal sliding door or an outward opening rear or side door.
- Seats and Tables
- There must be a seating area for diners to sit around
- The table can be fixed or detachable
- The table must mount directly to the vehicle floor or side walls
- The table mounting must be secured as a permanent feature, either bolted screwed or welded. The table itself can be detachable.
- Seats must be secured directly to the vehicle floor and/or side walls
- The seats must be secured as a permanent fixture, either bolted, riveted, screwed or welded
- Permanently secured seating must be available for use at a table
- Water Container
Note: DVLA do not state any requirements regarding water storage. However, most insurance companies state that the water tank should be fixed onboard, or under the chassis. However, some insurance companies are happy with an external water container that can be moved, such as those used with a caravan.- The vehicle must have an onboard or external (e,g, under the chassis) water container
- Note: The insurer Adrian Flux requires the water container to hold 6 gallons / 27 litres.
- Storage
- The vehicle must have at least one cupboard, locker or wardrobe
- The cupboard must be an integral part of the living accommodation area
- The cupboard must be a permanent feature, either bolted, riveted, screwed or welded
- The cupboard must be secured directly to the vehicle floor and / or side walls
- Cooking
- The vehicle must have cooking facilities powered by fixed gas, electric hob or microwave oven
- The cooking facilities must be secured directly to the vehicle floor or side wall
- The cooking facilities must be a permanent feature, either bolted, riveted, screwed or welded
- Gas and electric hobs must have a minimum or 2 cooking rings. Microwave ovens must have a power source (don't just fit one that can't be used)
- Gas cooking facilities with remote fuel supplies must have the gas supply pipe permanently secured to the vehicle structure
- Gas cooking facilities with remote fuel supplies should have the gas bottle, fuel reservoir secured to the vehicle structure
- Outside
- The vehicle must have at least one side window
- Since 2011 the DVLA are now asking that the vehicle look like a motor caravan from the outside
Wow! ,3 months to completion sounds pretty optimistic to me ,but that's the challenge............At least the van's got some rear doors and a sliding side door already so that's item number 2 covered !
3.Concepts and aspirations
It seems that virtually anything is possible when doing a self-build camper conversion.The reason for doing your own conversion as opposed to buying a professionally coach-built campervan is that you can choose exactly what goes into it ,the layout ,and level of luxury,but the overall aim is to get this done more cheaply than it would cost to have done professionally,or if simply buying an off -the -peg vehicle.That is,unless the main aim of the exercise just is the exercising of DIY skills
The danger is that you risk getting carried away by the mass of (often expensive)equipment available for self-builders to install in their vans, and end up spending the same,or more cash,and expending a lot more time and energy ,than would have been the case when buying a ready made camper.There are online shops selling self build enthusiasts absolutely everything they could ever wish for.
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So what level of tech to install?
An important element for me was to create a "stealth" van,i.e a van containing enough elements needed for reasonable comfort inside,while from the outside retaining the appearance of a basic white van so as not to attract attention when parked overnight in town streets and supermarket car parks. 
A glaring pantechnicon,screaming "tourist".Best avoided in my opinion.
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 Stealth fighter,the inspiration
I wanted to avoid the many hatches and flaps,filler taps ,exit taps,vents and exhausts,double glazed obvious "camper" windows,and especially, swirly logos that you see on the sides of all commercially made and many self-build campers.
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The van will have to be equipped to provide some comfort during city breaks or trips in the cooler months,and also provide facilities to survive with enough power and heat,without mains hook-up if free-camping a couple of days.But also with 240 V hook-up facilities to enable generous power usage if on a campsite.
All camper vans need seats,and a bed;usually the one converts from the other.
And cooking facilities:I wanted a kitchenette with gas hob,and kitchen sink,fridge and a microwave to add some versatility to the cooking (adds the option of microwaveable ready meals,including frozen ones if the fridge has a freezer compartment, to provide a reasonable standard of cuisine !)
To ensure comfort while camping away from sites I want a separate washroom cubicle,with sink and shower,and featuring a cassette toilet for ease of emptying.For hot water for the kitchen sink I suppose you could just boil water in a kettle for washing up-but because of the shower/washroom I will need a proper water heater and so aim to fit one.
Finally I want some air heating as well ,to keep warm in cooler times of year.
Planning-measure, measure and measure again!
From my experience I would stress that it is really important to spend loads of planning time both inside and underneath your empty van measuring,measuring and measuring again to the nearest millimetre,while browsing all the kit available online and noting exact dimensions,to check what will fit into your plan,all the while keeping enough space for the all-important 6 foot bed/bench seat and table.
Everything you choose needs its site planning extremely carefully.For example gas or diesel heaters need exhaust vents and air intakes,often through the floor of the van if you are aiming to avoid cutting big holes in the walls.Any compartment in the van where there is gas appliance needs a "drop-out" hole in the floor so that any leaking gas will exit the van.Using gas means you need to think of your supply-do you use freestanding disposable propane ?(eg campinggaz),or refillable "Gaslow" LPG on board bottles,or an under-slung LPG tank? Do you put your fresh water tank on-board(less likely to freeze in really cold weather but takes up considerable space) or under-slung beneath the van(a better centre of gravity,less precious space taken up inside the van,and it is possible to get an anti-freezing heater to winterise an under-slung tank if you are planning ski trips,for example)
Invariably,the first place you think of placing an item turns out to have a piece of chassis or other vital structural member underneath just where you would need to place a necessary drain or water/gas intake through the floor,or a piece of bulkhead just where you would need cut a vent through the wall.
Your under-slung fresh and waste water tanks,and gas tank ,will add to your fuel tank, vehicle cabling ,chassis structures and spare wheel under your van to create a whole host of "no-go" areas for drilling holes through the floor above !
All this needs very careful planning, and careful studying of the exact dimensions and schematic diagrams of appliances you are thinking of purchasing.
All camper vans need seats,and a bed;usually the one converts from the other.
And cooking facilities:I wanted a kitchenette with gas hob,and kitchen sink,fridge and a microwave to add some versatility to the cooking (adds the option of microwaveable ready meals,including frozen ones if the fridge has a freezer compartment, to provide a reasonable standard of cuisine !)
To ensure comfort while camping away from sites I want a separate washroom cubicle,with sink and shower,and featuring a cassette toilet for ease of emptying.For hot water for the kitchen sink I suppose you could just boil water in a kettle for washing up-but because of the shower/washroom I will need a proper water heater and so aim to fit one.
Finally I want some air heating as well ,to keep warm in cooler times of year.
Planning-measure, measure and measure again!
From my experience I would stress that it is really important to spend loads of planning time both inside and underneath your empty van measuring,measuring and measuring again to the nearest millimetre,while browsing all the kit available online and noting exact dimensions,to check what will fit into your plan,all the while keeping enough space for the all-important 6 foot bed/bench seat and table.
Everything you choose needs its site planning extremely carefully.For example gas or diesel heaters need exhaust vents and air intakes,often through the floor of the van if you are aiming to avoid cutting big holes in the walls.Any compartment in the van where there is gas appliance needs a "drop-out" hole in the floor so that any leaking gas will exit the van.Using gas means you need to think of your supply-do you use freestanding disposable propane ?(eg campinggaz),or refillable "Gaslow" LPG on board bottles,or an under-slung LPG tank? Do you put your fresh water tank on-board(less likely to freeze in really cold weather but takes up considerable space) or under-slung beneath the van(a better centre of gravity,less precious space taken up inside the van,and it is possible to get an anti-freezing heater to winterise an under-slung tank if you are planning ski trips,for example)
Invariably,the first place you think of placing an item turns out to have a piece of chassis or other vital structural member underneath just where you would need to place a necessary drain or water/gas intake through the floor,or a piece of bulkhead just where you would need cut a vent through the wall.
Your under-slung fresh and waste water tanks,and gas tank ,will add to your fuel tank, vehicle cabling ,chassis structures and spare wheel under your van to create a whole host of "no-go" areas for drilling holes through the floor above !
All this needs very careful planning, and careful studying of the exact dimensions and schematic diagrams of appliances you are thinking of purchasing.
4. Can you do it all yourself?
The essence of a self-build camper camper conversion project is of course that you are doing it yourself.There are significant challenges if you have not done this before. My joinery skills are pretty reasonable, and I reckoned I could construct the interior of the van and furniture but I had misgivings about installing an all-singing-and-dancing 240 V/12 V electrical system safely .Also a no-brainer is that the installation of the LPG gas tank and the plumbing of the gas piping needs to be done by someone with experience.Surprisingly,I found that unlike domestic installations, regulation and certification of the gas installation is only needed if you are going to hire out your van. Otherwise you are able lawfully to DIY it. But I was not going to mess with the gas and 240 V supply!
Finally. I was too chicken to cut the big holes in the walls of the van for the windows, and in the roof for skylights. In fact it is perfectly possible for the amateur do do all of this. The van walls are thin, and you just need a drill, a jigsaw,and some special glue to stick the glass over the holes. But I didn't want to risk disaster! Buying a van with the windows already in would have been the best option, but mine didn't come with ready-fitted windows and in the event I decided to get windows in the rear doors and sliding side door fitted professionally.
One consideration when getting some paid help in is that your conversion will end up costing a fair bit more,so to keep within some sort of budget I have decided to ration the help to the essentials mentioned above,and I will try to do the rest myself
And for help with other items, I arranged for Jason Hunter, of West Country Camper Conversions (in Clutton) to do all the things I didn't dare to do myself.
The essence of a self-build camper camper conversion project is of course that you are doing it yourself.There are significant challenges if you have not done this before. My joinery skills are pretty reasonable, and I reckoned I could construct the interior of the van and furniture but I had misgivings about installing an all-singing-and-dancing 240 V/12 V electrical system safely .Also a no-brainer is that the installation of the LPG gas tank and the plumbing of the gas piping needs to be done by someone with experience.Surprisingly,I found that unlike domestic installations, regulation and certification of the gas installation is only needed if you are going to hire out your van. Otherwise you are able lawfully to DIY it. But I was not going to mess with the gas and 240 V supply!
Finally. I was too chicken to cut the big holes in the walls of the van for the windows, and in the roof for skylights. In fact it is perfectly possible for the amateur do do all of this. The van walls are thin, and you just need a drill, a jigsaw,and some special glue to stick the glass over the holes. But I didn't want to risk disaster! Buying a van with the windows already in would have been the best option, but mine didn't come with ready-fitted windows and in the event I decided to get windows in the rear doors and sliding side door fitted professionally.
One consideration when getting some paid help in is that your conversion will end up costing a fair bit more,so to keep within some sort of budget I have decided to ration the help to the essentials mentioned above,and I will try to do the rest myself
And for help with other items, I arranged for Jason Hunter, of West Country Camper Conversions (in Clutton) to do all the things I didn't dare to do myself.
5. First steps-removing the bulkhead
Clearly .it is important to be able to move from the front seats ,to the living area of the van,and vice versa,without getting out of one door and getting in through another .Fortunately the metal bulkhead is easily removable by unscrewing a number of bolts......
In this picture you can see I have started experimenting with a provisional layout defined by red sticky tape on the floor.
I was going to keep the ply lining,but first remove it ,and then apply insulation before replacing.
It will need removing anyway to wire the planned 12 V and 140 V circuits.
Clearly .it is important to be able to move from the front seats ,to the living area of the van,and vice versa,without getting out of one door and getting in through another .Fortunately the metal bulkhead is easily removable by unscrewing a number of bolts......
In this picture you can see I have started experimenting with a provisional layout defined by red sticky tape on the floor.
I was going to keep the ply lining,but first remove it ,and then apply insulation before replacing.
It will need removing anyway to wire the planned 12 V and 140 V circuits.
On removing the bulkhead the light is greatly improved,immediately.We have sacrificed the protection given to the driver and passenger from loose bits of load flying forward in an accident,but the furniture I will build will restore some of this safety barrier,I hope.
Once the windows are cut in the back,the driver will also be able to see backwards while driving and particularly,reversing.The windscreen already has a slot for a rear-view mirror to be added;any Renault mirror will fit. I got a Renault Scenic one on Ebay for a fiver.
The double passenger bench seat needs to go.You can't squeeze past it to get into the front of the van.
6. Replacing the seats
Campervanning seems to be a hobby for couples:the greater proportion of professionally converted vans seem to have just two front seats,often on swivels,which can form part of a "lounge area" in the forward section of the van.
I want to keep my options open,and get rid of the bench seats but still have 3 seats overall so that the occasional family member or friend (or hitchhiker) can come too.This will have an added advantage of not needing to change the seating number on the DVLA registration document.
The Renault Master driver seats have a nice big armrest on the inner side-I wanted to get a matching seat to go on the passenger side.Various people suggested getting a second hand drivers seat,but the armrest would be on the wrong side and would have to go,and the seat-belt lock would be on the wrong side.The obvious answer is to source a second-hand Left Hand drive Driver's seat from Europe.And while I'm at it why not get two,with one extra driver's seat fixed in the rear,rather than a minibus type seat?The armrest will stop the passenger falling out sideways!
Campervanning seems to be a hobby for couples:the greater proportion of professionally converted vans seem to have just two front seats,often on swivels,which can form part of a "lounge area" in the forward section of the van.
I want to keep my options open,and get rid of the bench seats but still have 3 seats overall so that the occasional family member or friend (or hitchhiker) can come too.This will have an added advantage of not needing to change the seating number on the DVLA registration document.
The Renault Master driver seats have a nice big armrest on the inner side-I wanted to get a matching seat to go on the passenger side.Various people suggested getting a second hand drivers seat,but the armrest would be on the wrong side and would have to go,and the seat-belt lock would be on the wrong side.The obvious answer is to source a second-hand Left Hand drive Driver's seat from Europe.And while I'm at it why not get two,with one extra driver's seat fixed in the rear,rather than a minibus type seat?The armrest will stop the passenger falling out sideways!
The seats when I bought the van-with only a 10cm gap between the passenger and driver's seats that was impossible to squeeze through!
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The seats once I had replaced the bench seat with the Left-hand drive driver's seat from Holland
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I hit on the idea of searching for seats online in Holland as I felt It was likely that I would be able speak/type English to any web contact I found. A little bit of searching the web and I came up with Dennis Boomkamp Trading , Edisonstraat 11a, 7601 PS Almelo, Netherlands.
What I'm looking according to Google Translate is a Bestuurdersstoel (driver's seat).
A couple of emails, with a picture of my existing seats so as to get exact matching upholstery, a Euro bank transfer online, and then 2 perfect matching second-hand seats arrived from Holland in just a couple of days.
Removing /replacing these seats is child's play. You just need a spanner to undo the bolts at the four corners. There are fortunately no electronics issues to contend with ,such as airbag sensors or seat belt pre-tensioners, on these simple bench seats and the single seat fits neatly over four of the five holes vacated by the bench seat, and is fixed using the same bolts.
The 3rd seat is to be fixed to the floor, alongside the window in the sliding side door (in the position shown in the picture here) where there are no existing fixings .
An interesting fact is that safety of seats is looked at in an MOT only in relation to factory fitted seats. If you add any extra seats to a private vehicle it's up to you whether they're done safely. But seeing as I might like the person sitting in this seat, best to get it fixed properly, with underfloor bolts/strengthening brackets. The seat-belt (sourced from Ebay again)will bolt nicely onto holes on the sliding door side stanchion.
What I'm looking according to Google Translate is a Bestuurdersstoel (driver's seat).
A couple of emails, with a picture of my existing seats so as to get exact matching upholstery, a Euro bank transfer online, and then 2 perfect matching second-hand seats arrived from Holland in just a couple of days.
Removing /replacing these seats is child's play. You just need a spanner to undo the bolts at the four corners. There are fortunately no electronics issues to contend with ,such as airbag sensors or seat belt pre-tensioners, on these simple bench seats and the single seat fits neatly over four of the five holes vacated by the bench seat, and is fixed using the same bolts.
The 3rd seat is to be fixed to the floor, alongside the window in the sliding side door (in the position shown in the picture here) where there are no existing fixings .
An interesting fact is that safety of seats is looked at in an MOT only in relation to factory fitted seats. If you add any extra seats to a private vehicle it's up to you whether they're done safely. But seeing as I might like the person sitting in this seat, best to get it fixed properly, with underfloor bolts/strengthening brackets. The seat-belt (sourced from Ebay again)will bolt nicely onto holes on the sliding door side stanchion.
7. Fitting Windows
If you are lucky the van you buy has windows already. Mine didn't .I decided I wanted rear door windows, and a window in the sliding side door. As these are often added in the factory the van will retain the "stealth" appearance of a working van .The sliding door window also greatly improves visibility to the left when at staggered junctions, and is invaluable for visibility when driving on the right in Europe.
I didn't fancy cutting huge great holes in my new pride and joy myself. I booked some professional fitters who came, and did the job on my drive. Actually a relatively easy task, I suppose, in retrospect-but one which if it went wrong would wreck the van. Essentially they just used a jigsaw, cut out the template holes in the door panel ,already obvious from the build of the doors, and the window panes then go over the holes and are fixed with a quick setting glue An hour later and it looks as though the job had been done on the production line.
I didn't fancy cutting huge great holes in my new pride and joy myself. I booked some professional fitters who came, and did the job on my drive. Actually a relatively easy task, I suppose, in retrospect-but one which if it went wrong would wreck the van. Essentially they just used a jigsaw, cut out the template holes in the door panel ,already obvious from the build of the doors, and the window panes then go over the holes and are fixed with a quick setting glue An hour later and it looks as though the job had been done on the production line.
First step-the hole cut out
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The window on the right has been fitted with glass-the one on the left has the seal in place and awaits the glass.
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I wanted tinted windows for privacy but although off-the-shelf tinted windows are available for most vans, I couldn't find a fitter who could access any for the Master, hence I had to have non-tinted windows fitted ; then at extra expense I had to take the van to a window tinter who applied tinted film. Fortunately, despite the extra expense this is an excellent product and looks just as if the glass itself is tinted, with no deterioration at all after 5 years
8. The Plan
While sorting out the seats I was busy thinking and planning.
This first image is of the nearside(Left side) of the van including the bed/bench seat,utilities tower to include fridge,microwave oven ,and control panel,with top lockers running above.The 3rd seat will be in the sliding side doorway.
This first image is of the nearside(Left side) of the van including the bed/bench seat,utilities tower to include fridge,microwave oven ,and control panel,with top lockers running above.The 3rd seat will be in the sliding side doorway.
The second image shows the offside(Right side ) of the van with shower/toilet cubicle just behind the drivers seat (and opposite the sliding door),with a full height wardrobe at the rear,and in between these a kitchenette with cooker and sink set in a worktop .
More top lockers are planned above, and cupboards below ,of which one will contain the Truma water heater.
The wheel arches take up a frustrating amount of on-board space.
More top lockers are planned above, and cupboards below ,of which one will contain the Truma water heater.
The wheel arches take up a frustrating amount of on-board space.
9. Insulation
The walls and ceilings of panel vans are very thin metal,with none of the insulation and fabric covering that you get in a car.Strength is provided by bulkheads.
(The thin walls do actually make it easy to cut holes for windows,skylights and flues if you have a bit of confidence).
Insulation is vital otherwise you will be extremely hot in the summer,and freezing in the winter.There is little point installing heating (I will be) unless the heat can be retained in the van.Also,with bare metal surfaces inside , you would get a huge amount of condensation in the cold weather.My van came with a bare ceiling,and plywood panelled walls and floor,standard for a working van.There is no insulation beneath the plywood.
Having read about the problem,one needs to be aware of conduction channels that can defeat your attempt to insulate ,i.e. any metal or glass left around the insulated parts that remain in continuity between the outside and inside,such as bulkheads,door surrounds,and windows,are channels for your heat to flee the van or cold to enter
The first step was to remove the plywood panels and the boxing from the wheel arches.Taking advice from a professional converter,I decided to leave the plywood floor alone.Seeing converters describing their work on brand new vans,I see it is usual to lay underfloor insulation if you are starting from scratch.(you have to be careful not to sacrifice too much of your precious headroom).
However,the wooden floor panel in my van is secured by multiple screws tapping through into the metal floor.If they were taken out,it would be unlikely I could get the screws back in the same holes,resulting in multiple unnecessary perforations through the floor*.
With the panels removed,you can now see that the walls are divided into "boxes".These are not regularly shaped,and are of varying depths.
*After using the van in fairly cold weather,it became apparent that the lack of insulation under the floor was a weak point.The floor felt very cold and must be a big source of heat loss.The problem was partially resolved by using some loose carpet floor runners and mats which at least made it more comfortable in bare feet .If starting from scratch with a brand new van,laying something like Cellutex slabs under the floor panel would be a very good idea,but check you don't lose too much headroom.
What to insulate with?
There seem to be 3 main types of insulation used by self-builders........
There seem to be 3 main types of insulation used by self-builders........
I) Rockwool,or other mineral wool insulation roll.(or some have even used sheep's wool).
I was told that these wool rolls,though easy to cut or tear,but difficult to hold in place while building, have the major disadvantage that they absorb and hold water,so if you have a leak,or condensation,you are likely to end up with rust problems in hidden areas.
I was told that these wool rolls,though easy to cut or tear,but difficult to hold in place while building, have the major disadvantage that they absorb and hold water,so if you have a leak,or condensation,you are likely to end up with rust problems in hidden areas.
2) Cellutex ,or Kingspan.
These are lightweight foam slabs,easy to cut ,but they are not flexible.A lot of people seem to use these,but I think that while they would be useful for the floor they are no use at all for my van walls and ceiling ,which are curved,irregularly shaped and which have sections of different depths.
Trying to bend them round a curve often results in them breaking .Cutting to shape for each section would be a nightmare.
These are lightweight foam slabs,easy to cut ,but they are not flexible.A lot of people seem to use these,but I think that while they would be useful for the floor they are no use at all for my van walls and ceiling ,which are curved,irregularly shaped and which have sections of different depths.
Trying to bend them round a curve often results in them breaking .Cutting to shape for each section would be a nightmare.
3) Airtec
This is a silver foil lined "bubble wrap" sandwich.Cheap varieties are used to go behind radiators in houses,but the Airtec is high spec multi-layered stuff too,for which the makers claim a single thickness (of about 4 mm) has the same insulating properties as a 50 mm Cellutex panel.So I went for this option.It's wasn't cheap at at £90 per 50 metre roll,but 2 rolls proved enough to do several layers for my van .
The Airtec is easy to cut, is light but rigid and holds a crease to be bent to fit tightly inside each of the panel sections.It apparently works best if there are air gaps between layers.I have only sealed the sections around the edges with special silver foil tape leaving a sealed air gap under most of the foil.
As it is so thin,light,and easy to work with,I planned three layers on the ceiling and two layers on the walls(one layer lining the metal wall sections and a second layer stuck to the inside of the underside of the plywood panels when I replace them,making that a double layer of Airtec with a sealed air gap between the two layers).
This is a silver foil lined "bubble wrap" sandwich.Cheap varieties are used to go behind radiators in houses,but the Airtec is high spec multi-layered stuff too,for which the makers claim a single thickness (of about 4 mm) has the same insulating properties as a 50 mm Cellutex panel.So I went for this option.It's wasn't cheap at at £90 per 50 metre roll,but 2 rolls proved enough to do several layers for my van .
The Airtec is easy to cut, is light but rigid and holds a crease to be bent to fit tightly inside each of the panel sections.It apparently works best if there are air gaps between layers.I have only sealed the sections around the edges with special silver foil tape leaving a sealed air gap under most of the foil.
As it is so thin,light,and easy to work with,I planned three layers on the ceiling and two layers on the walls(one layer lining the metal wall sections and a second layer stuck to the inside of the underside of the plywood panels when I replace them,making that a double layer of Airtec with a sealed air gap between the two layers).
The ceiling eventually will have a covering layer of thin decoratively papered plywood,but I calculated that first it needs some wooden battens around the edge to create a smoothly continuous gentle arch,to then allow application of gently curving 3mm ply over the new wooden and existing metal ceiling battens thus allowing it to meet the side walls neatly. I will keep the existing light that turns on automatically when opening the sliding door,but it needs re-positioning from its location high up opposite the door,into what will be the new ceiling instead.Ditto the light by the rear doors. |
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Holding the Airtec sheets in place while the glue dries needs lots of poles !
Fortunately all this timber was later utilised into the furniture construction
GLUES
The glue/sealant I used for applying the Airtec and for fitting wooden battens to the metal structures, and indeed for many other construction tasks was Sikaflex (512 and 221 varieties, one drying slightly more flexible than the other) and the slightly lower priced(but seemingly as good) Tiger Seal. These products are not cheap but provide a really strong and lasting bond between a variety of materials and can be used externally too (e.g. for fixing solar panels to the roof).Sikaflex is available in white, grey, black, brown and Tiger Seal in white and black.
The glue/sealant I used for applying the Airtec and for fitting wooden battens to the metal structures, and indeed for many other construction tasks was Sikaflex (512 and 221 varieties, one drying slightly more flexible than the other) and the slightly lower priced(but seemingly as good) Tiger Seal. These products are not cheap but provide a really strong and lasting bond between a variety of materials and can be used externally too (e.g. for fixing solar panels to the roof).Sikaflex is available in white, grey, black, brown and Tiger Seal in white and black.
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10. Electrics
I decided that my basic requirements, to allow maxiumum versatilty ,was to have both 240 V and 12v electrical circuits on board.
This would include 1) Leisure batteries which are charged by the vehicle engine ,which then supply fridge, lighting,pumps etc
2) A 240 V hook-up to allow connection to campsite electrics( or household electrics via an adapter)
3) A solar Panel to top up the batteries when off-grid
This would include 1) Leisure batteries which are charged by the vehicle engine ,which then supply fridge, lighting,pumps etc
2) A 240 V hook-up to allow connection to campsite electrics( or household electrics via an adapter)
3) A solar Panel to top up the batteries when off-grid
LEISURE BATTERIES
The subject of leisure batteries is surprisingly complex.This website provides invaluable information regarding choice of battery and subsequent care
https://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/helpandadvice/technicalhelp/datasheets/guide-leisure-batteries/
There are many online charts(including in the website above) showing how to calculate how much charge (amp-hours) you need from your leisure batteries.This of course depends on what you run from them ,and for how long. I found the following invaluable too :
http://deepredmotorhome.com/electrics.php
In the event I didn't use any of the clever amp-hour calculators and had to chose the leisure batteries solely based on what actual physical size would fit into the location I had chosen for them-in the spaces under the driver and passenger seats.
I used a pair of Giant brand 80 amp hour batteries giving 160 aH in total. These wore out after 5 years and were replaced with the much superior Varta LFD75 75 amp-hour batteries (giving 150 amp-hour total) ,but they maintain a much better charge.
Fortunately these have proved totally adequate for my needs throughout ,and I can run a 12 V compressor fridge on constantly(but compressor running only intermittently depending on ambient temperature),LED lights on in the evening,the water pumps(main pump and toilet flush)running whenever needed for taps,charging my mobile phone and laptop each night,and watching 12 V TV for a couple of hours.Some other equipment e.g. solar controller and control panel displays do use a little juice in the background even on standby.
When travelling for a day,you of course arrive with your leisure batteries fully charged from the van engine(in fact half an hour of running is generally sufficient for a re-charge).In the morning,when not hooked up to 240 V,the battery indicators would never read less than
12.4 V (indicating about 75% charged) and would already be starting to increase charge a little before I set off due to the solar panel kicking in.
The longest I have camped off grid was 48 hours and my 150 amp-hours batteries have provided all I needed.
The subject of leisure batteries is surprisingly complex.This website provides invaluable information regarding choice of battery and subsequent care
https://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/helpandadvice/technicalhelp/datasheets/guide-leisure-batteries/
There are many online charts(including in the website above) showing how to calculate how much charge (amp-hours) you need from your leisure batteries.This of course depends on what you run from them ,and for how long. I found the following invaluable too :
http://deepredmotorhome.com/electrics.php
In the event I didn't use any of the clever amp-hour calculators and had to chose the leisure batteries solely based on what actual physical size would fit into the location I had chosen for them-in the spaces under the driver and passenger seats.
I used a pair of Giant brand 80 amp hour batteries giving 160 aH in total. These wore out after 5 years and were replaced with the much superior Varta LFD75 75 amp-hour batteries (giving 150 amp-hour total) ,but they maintain a much better charge.
Fortunately these have proved totally adequate for my needs throughout ,and I can run a 12 V compressor fridge on constantly(but compressor running only intermittently depending on ambient temperature),LED lights on in the evening,the water pumps(main pump and toilet flush)running whenever needed for taps,charging my mobile phone and laptop each night,and watching 12 V TV for a couple of hours.Some other equipment e.g. solar controller and control panel displays do use a little juice in the background even on standby.
When travelling for a day,you of course arrive with your leisure batteries fully charged from the van engine(in fact half an hour of running is generally sufficient for a re-charge).In the morning,when not hooked up to 240 V,the battery indicators would never read less than
12.4 V (indicating about 75% charged) and would already be starting to increase charge a little before I set off due to the solar panel kicking in.
The longest I have camped off grid was 48 hours and my 150 amp-hours batteries have provided all I needed.
The two 75aH leisure batteries secured under the driver's seat and the passenger seat.Connections run to the Power Supply Unit,the other leisure battery ,the solar charger and the vehicle battery(this sits close by in a well between the two seats).
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The batteries were vented through the floor .Luckily there was no important structure underneath when it came to drilling holes.A metal frame grips the upper rim of the batteries and fixes to the rear of the seat boxes.
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SOLAR PANEL
This proved to a slightly disappointing addition as it did not provide quite the charge I had originally naively hoped for,but its is actually of some use.
I chose a Bosch 80W rigid panel kit from Photonic Universe https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en/
It comes with a solar controller which allows two identical Leisure batteries to be charged independently in varying proportions.Mine we set
for 50:50 charging.(It is,I later found,possible to connect both batteries in parallel and then effectively you have just one battery).
This proved to a slightly disappointing addition as it did not provide quite the charge I had originally naively hoped for,but its is actually of some use.
I chose a Bosch 80W rigid panel kit from Photonic Universe https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en/
It comes with a solar controller which allows two identical Leisure batteries to be charged independently in varying proportions.Mine we set
for 50:50 charging.(It is,I later found,possible to connect both batteries in parallel and then effectively you have just one battery).
The 80W panel charges at 12 V thus giving a theoretical maximum charging output of 6.6 amps . This figure is optimistic,as this would only be achievable with the sun directly overhead at midday with cloudless sky.(Even supposedly knowledgeable Camping websites give figures for power generation which seem to be wildly inflated above real life experience.)
In reality ,with the panel flat on the roof it is never aligned directly at the angle of the sun.Sitting on my drive in the south of the UK,with some shade from trees at certain times of day,the average charge per day recorded by my solar controller is about 5 aH .Looking at max/min readings,the system has momentarily reached a charge of 6.6 amps but a more typical performance would be 1-2 amps on a sunny day in the summer,and in the evening or in the winter 0.1-0.2 amps is not uncommon.
My Solar regulator is hard to interpret as it records cumulative charge,but when the batteries are fully charged the regulator switches off charging automatically (to prevent overcharging)and this dormant period is not counted by the cumulative charge counter even if the sun is full.Neither will it add much if you are driving in full sun as the engine will have charged the batteries after half an hour.
Despite all this,In practice,I find that somehow my batteries remain more or less topped up throughout the year when parked up on the drive in the UK. When on holiday abroad I tend to find on waking the battery charge may have dropped as low as 12.2 overnight( with the fridge running and phones charging),but picks up to at least 12.4 before I drive away an hour or two later,so the solar must be providing SOME useful boost.
These solar systems only really come into their own if you travel south in Europe when you may achieve 5 times the performance from them than you get in the UK.
ELECTRICS PLAN
List of equipment needing electrical supply:-
Compressor Fridge 12V
Air heater 240 V ,with 12V supply for controls
Water heater 240 V with 12v supply for controls
TV locker 240 V and 12 V sockets
Kitchenette 240 V and 12 V sockets
Microwave 240 V socket
spare 12V utility socket on the utility tower
water pump 12V
Dometic cassette Toilet flush 12 V
LED lighting :- 2x lights in ceiling.1 x spotlight on toplocker.1x light in washroom.1 x striplight in kitchenette
Sensors-Gasit LPG tank fuel gauge, Kombialarm LPG and narcotic gas detector
In reality ,with the panel flat on the roof it is never aligned directly at the angle of the sun.Sitting on my drive in the south of the UK,with some shade from trees at certain times of day,the average charge per day recorded by my solar controller is about 5 aH .Looking at max/min readings,the system has momentarily reached a charge of 6.6 amps but a more typical performance would be 1-2 amps on a sunny day in the summer,and in the evening or in the winter 0.1-0.2 amps is not uncommon.
My Solar regulator is hard to interpret as it records cumulative charge,but when the batteries are fully charged the regulator switches off charging automatically (to prevent overcharging)and this dormant period is not counted by the cumulative charge counter even if the sun is full.Neither will it add much if you are driving in full sun as the engine will have charged the batteries after half an hour.
Despite all this,In practice,I find that somehow my batteries remain more or less topped up throughout the year when parked up on the drive in the UK. When on holiday abroad I tend to find on waking the battery charge may have dropped as low as 12.2 overnight( with the fridge running and phones charging),but picks up to at least 12.4 before I drive away an hour or two later,so the solar must be providing SOME useful boost.
These solar systems only really come into their own if you travel south in Europe when you may achieve 5 times the performance from them than you get in the UK.
ELECTRICS PLAN
List of equipment needing electrical supply:-
Compressor Fridge 12V
Air heater 240 V ,with 12V supply for controls
Water heater 240 V with 12v supply for controls
TV locker 240 V and 12 V sockets
Kitchenette 240 V and 12 V sockets
Microwave 240 V socket
spare 12V utility socket on the utility tower
water pump 12V
Dometic cassette Toilet flush 12 V
LED lighting :- 2x lights in ceiling.1 x spotlight on toplocker.1x light in washroom.1 x striplight in kitchenette
Sensors-Gasit LPG tank fuel gauge, Kombialarm LPG and narcotic gas detector
Using the same diagrams as in Section 7 above,I have added colour coded sites that I therefore needed to wire up:-
First-fix electrics needed to be done before the wall and ceiling panels and insulation were completed.
I was able to run much of the cabling round a convenient trunking at the top of the van walls,and the connection to the outside 240 V hookup was run into the engine compartment and established in the fuse box where there was room for the blue IP44 plug.It is an easy task to flip the bonnet,run the cable up from the front wheel and connect up,enabling the bonnet to be shut again while hooked up.(This satisfies my criteria for minimum external plug sockets and ports on the van sides.
I was able to run much of the cabling round a convenient trunking at the top of the van walls,and the connection to the outside 240 V hookup was run into the engine compartment and established in the fuse box where there was room for the blue IP44 plug.It is an easy task to flip the bonnet,run the cable up from the front wheel and connect up,enabling the bonnet to be shut again while hooked up.(This satisfies my criteria for minimum external plug sockets and ports on the van sides.
First-fix electrics installation;all the wires end here awaiting the control panel
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the collection of cables(all carefully labelled!) once the wall panels are in place and utilities tower under construction
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The lid off the fuse box under the bonnet ,showing the IP44 plug for 240 V hookup
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The completed utilities tower.The Power supply unit seemed to get quite warm in operation so I installed a plastic ventilation grill on either side.The green light indicates the solar panels are doing some charging,batteries showing as having 13.1 V on the ECU read-out.
The Sargent EC160 Power Supply Unit with switches and fuses/circuit breakers.
THE FRIDGE
I chose the Dometic Waeco 80 Litre Compressor fridge.This runs on the 12 V leisure batteries.
This has proved to be an extremely useful piece of kit, and works well to keep a proper chill even with a 30 degree outside temperature.
The only thing which is not perfect was that the ice box which, while it does freeze, is prone to defrosting when the ambient temperature in the van gets chilly and the thermostat therefore cuts out. The ice box was useful for temporarily storing something you were going to eat later that day such as an ice cream ,but I wouldn't trust it for longer storage of frozen food.
The fridge is the single most heavy consumer of leisure battery power in the van.
It's rated at 48 W, so if the compressor were running constantly on the 12 V supply it would eat up about 100 aH in 24 hours . In practice ,however, once chilled down to working temperature, the compressor only runs intermittently.
Compressor running time can be minimised by keeping the fridge full of food/drink, trying not to open it too much, and, most importantly, keeping the thermostat turned down as only quite a low setting is needed to keep the fridge properly chilled to below 4 degrees(I have a fridge thermometer to check).
This last trick is of course probably the reason why the ice box is sometimes not effective (at a low level of thermostat).In practice the fridge probably uses about 20-30 aH per 24 hours which thus provides plenty of leeway for surviving a weekend off-grid, or longer or if the solar panel is charging ,or if you drive somewhere or run the vehicle engine to charge the batteries from time to time.(And indefinitely if you're hooked up to 240 V on a site)
I chose the Dometic Waeco 80 Litre Compressor fridge.This runs on the 12 V leisure batteries.
This has proved to be an extremely useful piece of kit, and works well to keep a proper chill even with a 30 degree outside temperature.
The only thing which is not perfect was that the ice box which, while it does freeze, is prone to defrosting when the ambient temperature in the van gets chilly and the thermostat therefore cuts out. The ice box was useful for temporarily storing something you were going to eat later that day such as an ice cream ,but I wouldn't trust it for longer storage of frozen food.
The fridge is the single most heavy consumer of leisure battery power in the van.
It's rated at 48 W, so if the compressor were running constantly on the 12 V supply it would eat up about 100 aH in 24 hours . In practice ,however, once chilled down to working temperature, the compressor only runs intermittently.
Compressor running time can be minimised by keeping the fridge full of food/drink, trying not to open it too much, and, most importantly, keeping the thermostat turned down as only quite a low setting is needed to keep the fridge properly chilled to below 4 degrees(I have a fridge thermometer to check).
This last trick is of course probably the reason why the ice box is sometimes not effective (at a low level of thermostat).In practice the fridge probably uses about 20-30 aH per 24 hours which thus provides plenty of leeway for surviving a weekend off-grid, or longer or if the solar panel is charging ,or if you drive somewhere or run the vehicle engine to charge the batteries from time to time.(And indefinitely if you're hooked up to 240 V on a site)
The installed fridge. Pride of place still given to the free Simpsons fridge magnet from a mini-market in Vilnius!
11. WATER
I wanted enough water on board to enable a few days without supply. I opted to have the freshwater and waste tanks slung underneath the van.This provides a better centre of gravity ,and frees up a lot of potential space onboard. The only disadvantage is that if you intend to travel about in freezing weather you either need to fit a heater to the water tank to prevent freezing-up. Or rely on bottled water only under these weather conditions.
I chose an "off-the shelf" 81 Litre tank specifically for Renault Masters/Vauxhall Movanos, from CAK Tanks. In this case it has a channel in the upper centre part of the tank to allow it to be fitted around the hand brake cable which runs lengthways under the centre of the floor.The step halfway down the top is necessary to allow it to fit snugly under a chassis crossbar
To keep to my policy of no caps or lockers on the outside of the van, I fitted the filler cap just inside the sliding door, behind the 3rd seat. The hose travels diagonally backwards and downwards through the floor to enter the tank.
Water is pumped upwards from the tank by a Shurflo pump ,on demand to the cold taps in the shower/washroom sink and kitchen sink, and via the Truma water heater in which case it provides either cold water to the hot taps ,or hot water if you have pre-heated a supply in the Truma heater.
I also fitted a bespoke 20 Litre grey water tank under the kitchen sink(on the driver's side).This receives waste water from the kitchen sink and the washroom sink. The drain from the shower tray proved too low to reach back into this tank so simply drains to the ground. This little tank fills up surprisingly rapidly once you've done a bit of cooking and washing-up. Although probably frowned on, for convenience I do tend to leave the tap open so it just drains to the grass continually . It could be turned off in sensitive locations, in which case one must drive to a drain site periodically and attach a hose ,or empty it by the bucketful.
I chose an "off-the shelf" 81 Litre tank specifically for Renault Masters/Vauxhall Movanos, from CAK Tanks. In this case it has a channel in the upper centre part of the tank to allow it to be fitted around the hand brake cable which runs lengthways under the centre of the floor.The step halfway down the top is necessary to allow it to fit snugly under a chassis crossbar
To keep to my policy of no caps or lockers on the outside of the van, I fitted the filler cap just inside the sliding door, behind the 3rd seat. The hose travels diagonally backwards and downwards through the floor to enter the tank.
Water is pumped upwards from the tank by a Shurflo pump ,on demand to the cold taps in the shower/washroom sink and kitchen sink, and via the Truma water heater in which case it provides either cold water to the hot taps ,or hot water if you have pre-heated a supply in the Truma heater.
I also fitted a bespoke 20 Litre grey water tank under the kitchen sink(on the driver's side).This receives waste water from the kitchen sink and the washroom sink. The drain from the shower tray proved too low to reach back into this tank so simply drains to the ground. This little tank fills up surprisingly rapidly once you've done a bit of cooking and washing-up. Although probably frowned on, for convenience I do tend to leave the tap open so it just drains to the grass continually . It could be turned off in sensitive locations, in which case one must drive to a drain site periodically and attach a hose ,or empty it by the bucketful.
Hedgehog's view:The 81 Litre water tank in the middle of the picture(note the handbrake cable, which the tank fits snugly around).
In the distance is the smaller waste water tank.
(In the foreground is the air heater's exhaust.)
The water filler cap just inside the sliding door.(The black item below it is the air intake for the heater)
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The locker under the fridge ,showing the fresh water tank filler pipe and the air pipes to and from the Propex 2000e Air Heater
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Filling up with water:
I can either use the hose provided at many campsites, but I carry a long-necked 5L watering can and when I am staying somewhere for two or three days I find this ideal for carrying water to the van and topping up as I go along ,rather than have to drive to the service point.
I also carry a short length of hose with a couple of different fittings as I have found by experience that some campsites provide a tap but no hose.
I can either use the hose provided at many campsites, but I carry a long-necked 5L watering can and when I am staying somewhere for two or three days I find this ideal for carrying water to the van and topping up as I go along ,rather than have to drive to the service point.
I also carry a short length of hose with a couple of different fittings as I have found by experience that some campsites provide a tap but no hose.
Health and safety:
Although I sterilise the water tank before setting off on a journey, I am wary of the safety aspect of filling the tank from a campsite filler hose of unknown provenance(e.g. not knowing where the end of the hose has been stuck, left lying on the ground, rather near the toilet disposal sluice etc.) and in some countries I felt the water supply itself may be dubious. To avoid having to chlorinate every single tank-fill, I stick to the following protocol:
I always use bottled water for drinking and cleaning teeth, etc.(I carry about 4 x 2L bottles of cheapest water in the under-bed locker.)
I use the van supply from the tap for filling the kettle and for cooking(as its going to be boiled),as well as for washing.
When I do the washing up, I use the van supply in the sink, but always rinse each item in scalding boiled water from the kettle before drying. Many campsites have a kitchen/washing-up room and I use this if it looks clean, to save on van water when available, carrying dishes over in a plastic bowl.
This system has never let me down (i.e. no gastroenteritis!)despite being in some areas with very basic facilities..
Although I sterilise the water tank before setting off on a journey, I am wary of the safety aspect of filling the tank from a campsite filler hose of unknown provenance(e.g. not knowing where the end of the hose has been stuck, left lying on the ground, rather near the toilet disposal sluice etc.) and in some countries I felt the water supply itself may be dubious. To avoid having to chlorinate every single tank-fill, I stick to the following protocol:
I always use bottled water for drinking and cleaning teeth, etc.(I carry about 4 x 2L bottles of cheapest water in the under-bed locker.)
I use the van supply from the tap for filling the kettle and for cooking(as its going to be boiled),as well as for washing.
When I do the washing up, I use the van supply in the sink, but always rinse each item in scalding boiled water from the kettle before drying. Many campsites have a kitchen/washing-up room and I use this if it looks clean, to save on van water when available, carrying dishes over in a plastic bowl.
This system has never let me down (i.e. no gastroenteritis!)despite being in some areas with very basic facilities..
WATER HEATER
I fitted a 10 litre Truma Ultrastore heater into the system.
This is in a cupboard under the kitchenette worktop.
It can be seen here on the platform necessary to allow its flue to exit the van without encountering the van's side trim.
This can run on either LPG gas or 240 V electricity or (amazingly ) BOTH simultaneously to speed the heating.
Below it sits the Shurflo pump which pumps water on demand up from the below-floor tank to the cold taps , or through the heater to pump hot water to the hot taps (so long as you have pre-heated the water by running the heater!)The pump works on sensing falling pressure so pumps as soon as it senses a tap turned on.
Some people use a little expansion reservoir after the pump to even out flow to the taps but I get smooth flow without one.
Built into the frame are the heater's gas controls and thermostat ,and its 240 V supply
Pipes are colour-coded, blue or black=cold, and red=hot
The heater flue on the outside of the van,covered with its cowl.Note that it sits just above the van's trim,which necessitated siting the heater on a platform within
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The cowl off ,preparatory to running the gas water heater.(This was the only outside vent or cap which I was forced to place in the side of the van.)
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The heater was a costly luxury which has hardly been used. I found that when abroad that I tend to get showers in cheap campsites, or ,for a simple wash, boiling a kettle and filling the washroom sink was a lot quicker ,bearing in mind that the heater takes half an hour to warm the water. Still, it gives that feeling of freedom-theoretically I could have a hot shower parked up anywhere!
12. THE GAS ........or It's not a Gas !!
Installing the gas supply has proved to be the biggest headache of the whole project.
The initial considerations were that gas in some form was necessary ,to cook on. Further plans developed to include both gas fired air and water heating.
The larger campinggaz cylinders used widely in this country ,which are exchanged when empty for a new full cylinder, are available in France, but surprisingly, in few other countries. Each country seems to have its own type of portable gas cylinders, so to avoid having to take a variety of refillable cylinders, the solution is to have an LPG tank which can be refilled at fuel stations. These take the form of upright cylinders such as those provided by Gaslow, and which are normally kept within the van, or horizontal tanks which are normally under-slung beneath the van.
From the outset it was clear that the upright cylinders take up too much space for a small van(i.e. cant be stored beneath a seat)and once the water tank had been fitted there was no feasible space left beneath a Renault Master for any of the varied volumes/dimensions of under-slung tank which are available. The handbrake is operated by a cable which runs the length of the van under the middle of the chassis, effectively dividing the space in two, and neither half is wide enough to fit a tank.
The initial considerations were that gas in some form was necessary ,to cook on. Further plans developed to include both gas fired air and water heating.
The larger campinggaz cylinders used widely in this country ,which are exchanged when empty for a new full cylinder, are available in France, but surprisingly, in few other countries. Each country seems to have its own type of portable gas cylinders, so to avoid having to take a variety of refillable cylinders, the solution is to have an LPG tank which can be refilled at fuel stations. These take the form of upright cylinders such as those provided by Gaslow, and which are normally kept within the van, or horizontal tanks which are normally under-slung beneath the van.
From the outset it was clear that the upright cylinders take up too much space for a small van(i.e. cant be stored beneath a seat)and once the water tank had been fitted there was no feasible space left beneath a Renault Master for any of the varied volumes/dimensions of under-slung tank which are available. The handbrake is operated by a cable which runs the length of the van under the middle of the chassis, effectively dividing the space in two, and neither half is wide enough to fit a tank.
I therefore opted to ,unusually, fit a horizontal tank WITHIN the van, and this led to a series of problems which in the end, fortunately ,were overcome. If I had done at the start what I had to do at the end, and consulted an expert installer( Autogas Leisure 2000,of Thirsk), then all might have been well.
But I initially left the installation in the hands of the camper convertor who was helping me with the conversion,and we had a series of serious issues. In part this was probably the fact that a horizontal tank mounted INSIDE the vehicle is very unusual.
But I initially left the installation in the hands of the camper convertor who was helping me with the conversion,and we had a series of serious issues. In part this was probably the fact that a horizontal tank mounted INSIDE the vehicle is very unusual.
The first attempt at an install.
On-board gas tanks need to be,for safety reasons, in their own metal-lined sealed container(which gives 30 minutes protection in case of fire)and which also has floor drop-out vents to enable any leaking gas (which is heavier than air) to escape .
My original specification to my installer was for the gas tank to be in such a gas locker. The tank was always going to be adjacent to the electric/gas heater, as there was really nowhere else I could work out where to put either of them in my layout: however, when I got the van back I found the gas tank was not in a metal lined locker, and the only floor vent was under the heater. At this stage I was not too alarmed but it was clear that it would be hard to completely separate the gas tank from the heater, a potentially explosive combination! This, I think, was partly my fault for being unclear in my demands, and this was due to lack of knowledge and experience on my part.
With this first install, the regulator and tap(in the silver unit)were angled at the top of the tank. This proved to be a fundamental mistake, as these tanks are designed to be under-slung, with the silver part BELOW the tank. There is a the safety valve connected to a float inside the tank which senses when the tank is 80% full, and stops any further filling. With the silver unit on the upper side of the tank the float is permanently tipped on/valve shut in this position. When I came to fill the tank-nothing could go in !
Although the fitter had apparently installed such tanks under vans before, this was the first one he had installed on-board .
Before I knew of these issues, in good faith I went ahead and built the bed, encasing the tank and gas heater very solidly in an under-seat locker, as seen in this picture.
Although the fitter had apparently installed such tanks under vans before, this was the first one he had installed on-board .
Before I knew of these issues, in good faith I went ahead and built the bed, encasing the tank and gas heater very solidly in an under-seat locker, as seen in this picture.
Not good news-I couldnt partition off the heater from the gas tank owing to where the filler hose came up from
The second attempt.
Back the van went to Clutton.The tank needed turning over. The valve is now angled in a position which allows the tank to be filled.The cramped box which I had built around the tank after the initial install, created a challenge when it came to moving the tank, but it was just possible.I took the opportunity to request a further drop-out vent be installed under the gas tank, with a view to later fitting a divider between the heater and the tank.
All the pipework was then run to the 3 gas appliances, the air heater(in the picture),and to the water heater and the cooker hob on the other side of the van (via a metal pipe that runs down through the floor, across under the chassis, and back in through the floor the other side).Isolation taps/manifolds were fitted to the pipework leading to all 3 appliances. In this position the tank could now at least be filled with gas.
Unfortunately, as soon as the tank was filled, a huge leak in the connection to the regulator revealed itself !!.
This was due to a faulty fitting of the regulator (it later proved to be of an inferior type, too)This was seemingly fixed after yet another return to Clutton ,but after 3 months during which the build project continued ,eventually the gas started leaking from the regulator connection yet again !!!
Back the van went to Clutton.The tank needed turning over. The valve is now angled in a position which allows the tank to be filled.The cramped box which I had built around the tank after the initial install, created a challenge when it came to moving the tank, but it was just possible.I took the opportunity to request a further drop-out vent be installed under the gas tank, with a view to later fitting a divider between the heater and the tank.
All the pipework was then run to the 3 gas appliances, the air heater(in the picture),and to the water heater and the cooker hob on the other side of the van (via a metal pipe that runs down through the floor, across under the chassis, and back in through the floor the other side).Isolation taps/manifolds were fitted to the pipework leading to all 3 appliances. In this position the tank could now at least be filled with gas.
Unfortunately, as soon as the tank was filled, a huge leak in the connection to the regulator revealed itself !!.
This was due to a faulty fitting of the regulator (it later proved to be of an inferior type, too)This was seemingly fixed after yet another return to Clutton ,but after 3 months during which the build project continued ,eventually the gas started leaking from the regulator connection yet again !!!
With a double row of self-adhesive draft excluder strip stuck all around the top lip of the box ,there is an airtight seal when the metal -lined lid is closed
Third attempt.
This time I did what I should have done at the start,and consulted an expert installer,Autogas Leisure 2000,of Thirsk.This is a small family business which fits LPG fuel tanks to vehicles, and gas tanks to campervans. They have converted some of the Queens's cars to LPG.
They even offer a free overnight stopover in their yard with electrical hook-up, very necessary when I went up in January with snow on the ground,the gas part of the heater of course being inoperable at that time , but fortunately the 240v electric part works independently.
They removed the faulty regulator that had been poorly installed,and put in a superior version.I was given firm and sound advice about the need for the tank to be housed in its own sealed metal lined box.With the inflow pipe changed to a different position(coming up through the floor directly alongside the tank),this suddenly became achievable. The 3mm aluminium sheet which I obtained to do the job with was very easy to work with. It cut easily with a standard hand held jigsaw fitted with a metal-cutting blade, and was easy to fold to create right-angled corners, and overlapping seams.It was quite time consuming to craft panel linings from a number of interlocking pieces to cover over all the wooden bulkheads making up my box
I was able to make use of the wooden lid which had already constructed, which just needed a metal sheet fixing to it.With some draft excluder strip stuck all around the top lip of the box ,which forms a good seal when the lid is closed,I now have an airtight gas locker(except for the drop-out in the floor)I have not got metal lining the floor, but the Autogas experts felt this was not vital(there being, of course, the metal van floor beneath the plywood panel floor sheet)
The system was pressure tested--no leaks !! Nevertheless I do remain a little nervous of the set-up, especially as I sleep over it at night and it looks disconcertingly like a bomb!
I have installed a Kombialarm LPG detector with sensor in the gas box, but this has had its own issues-for about a year it alarmed after a while when the lid was closed for a few minutes and I had to leave it turned off. I could only deduce it was detecting some chemical dissipating from the rubber filler hose. On opening the lid the alarm stopped, and this showed that it was not LPG(which falls downwards, being heavier than air) but rather a more volatile chemical that was escapes when I opened the lid. Anyway, after a year its finally stopped doing it and I can now leave the alarm on unattended !.
This time I did what I should have done at the start,and consulted an expert installer,Autogas Leisure 2000,of Thirsk.This is a small family business which fits LPG fuel tanks to vehicles, and gas tanks to campervans. They have converted some of the Queens's cars to LPG.
They even offer a free overnight stopover in their yard with electrical hook-up, very necessary when I went up in January with snow on the ground,the gas part of the heater of course being inoperable at that time , but fortunately the 240v electric part works independently.
They removed the faulty regulator that had been poorly installed,and put in a superior version.I was given firm and sound advice about the need for the tank to be housed in its own sealed metal lined box.With the inflow pipe changed to a different position(coming up through the floor directly alongside the tank),this suddenly became achievable. The 3mm aluminium sheet which I obtained to do the job with was very easy to work with. It cut easily with a standard hand held jigsaw fitted with a metal-cutting blade, and was easy to fold to create right-angled corners, and overlapping seams.It was quite time consuming to craft panel linings from a number of interlocking pieces to cover over all the wooden bulkheads making up my box
I was able to make use of the wooden lid which had already constructed, which just needed a metal sheet fixing to it.With some draft excluder strip stuck all around the top lip of the box ,which forms a good seal when the lid is closed,I now have an airtight gas locker(except for the drop-out in the floor)I have not got metal lining the floor, but the Autogas experts felt this was not vital(there being, of course, the metal van floor beneath the plywood panel floor sheet)
The system was pressure tested--no leaks !! Nevertheless I do remain a little nervous of the set-up, especially as I sleep over it at night and it looks disconcertingly like a bomb!
I have installed a Kombialarm LPG detector with sensor in the gas box, but this has had its own issues-for about a year it alarmed after a while when the lid was closed for a few minutes and I had to leave it turned off. I could only deduce it was detecting some chemical dissipating from the rubber filler hose. On opening the lid the alarm stopped, and this showed that it was not LPG(which falls downwards, being heavier than air) but rather a more volatile chemical that was escapes when I opened the lid. Anyway, after a year its finally stopped doing it and I can now leave the alarm on unattended !.
13. Heating
In the section above relating to the gas installation you will already have seen a fair bit of the Propex Heatsource HS2000E blown air Gas and 240 V mains heater which I fitted.
There are the usual bewilderingly large number of choices when it comes to heaters. Some are designed to sit under the van, and include varieties than are fuelled from the van's diesel tank, as well as gas models. These underslung models have some advantages if you have room under the van as exhaust venting is straightforward.
Somehow, despite them being in common usage I didn't fancy having the necessary fuel-supply hole drilled into my van's diesel tank, and opted for an on-board heater, which then needed both an exhaust vent and a combustion air intake pipe fitting through the van floor to the outside.
As you will have seen, there ended up being some compromises and I was rather nervous about the safety aspect of having the gas tank and heater so close together. In practice the operation has been faultless.
My remaining concern is that maintenance will be tricky if it goes wrong as access is very limited.
There are the usual bewilderingly large number of choices when it comes to heaters. Some are designed to sit under the van, and include varieties than are fuelled from the van's diesel tank, as well as gas models. These underslung models have some advantages if you have room under the van as exhaust venting is straightforward.
Somehow, despite them being in common usage I didn't fancy having the necessary fuel-supply hole drilled into my van's diesel tank, and opted for an on-board heater, which then needed both an exhaust vent and a combustion air intake pipe fitting through the van floor to the outside.
As you will have seen, there ended up being some compromises and I was rather nervous about the safety aspect of having the gas tank and heater so close together. In practice the operation has been faultless.
My remaining concern is that maintenance will be tricky if it goes wrong as access is very limited.
The heater controls
on the left,3 levels of heat from the 240 V option on turning the control knob anti-clockwise, and fan only, or gas heat on turning clockwise. The dial on the right is the thermostat
The heat produced by the 240 V option is substantially more powerful than the gas option when at top setting, although you will see this is 2100 W( 8.8 amps) and theoretically may blow some of the more dodgy continental hookups which you occasionally find fused at 5 amps.
Either gas or electric will get the van very toasty!
Alternatively,I find that simply lighting the hob burners can be away of achieving quick warmth, but roof vents or doors need to be open to avoid Carbon monoxide build -up.(P.S. my CO detector has never gone off)
on the left,3 levels of heat from the 240 V option on turning the control knob anti-clockwise, and fan only, or gas heat on turning clockwise. The dial on the right is the thermostat
The heat produced by the 240 V option is substantially more powerful than the gas option when at top setting, although you will see this is 2100 W( 8.8 amps) and theoretically may blow some of the more dodgy continental hookups which you occasionally find fused at 5 amps.
Either gas or electric will get the van very toasty!
Alternatively,I find that simply lighting the hob burners can be away of achieving quick warmth, but roof vents or doors need to be open to avoid Carbon monoxide build -up.(P.S. my CO detector has never gone off)
The heater was installed the wrong way round really,but luckily I just managed to create tight 180 degree turns in the hot and cold ducts
The lower vent blows the hot air onto anyone sitting on the bench seat.
(The upper vent to allow air flow in to cool the electricity control unit)
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As shown before ,the ducts pass below the fridge.The hot air duct splits here. One branch passes up the back of the fridge and blows onto the bench seat, the other branch blows out low on the floor.
The same view as above(beneath the fridge),with the locker door closed. The lower vent blows out hot air from the heater. The upper vent is to allow some general air flow to pass into the locker and up the back of the fridge to cool that.
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14. Building furniture part 1-The Bed/seat
The bed seat is designed to allow the two lids to be opened either with the extension
This is achieved buy having interlocking sliding slats made of 44 mm x 18 mm pine strips,with 5 mm ply to hold them in position,both on the underneath of the stationary slats,and on the top of the moving slats. Strips of aluminium, inset in some of the slats in routed channels,slide in similar slightly wider grooves cut in the adjoining slat.The strip of ply nearest the wall acts as a lock when the top layer is fully slid home,so the whole thing is fully stable when the complete lid is then lifted Finally,because the slide out sections could not be quite as long as the stationary side of the bed,owing to the rear door bulkhead,a small extension piece was needed to lengthen the slide-out half of the bed.Both the main slide-out sections,once released from the stationary part ,can slide either fore or aft.The extension can be added on the end of the 2 main sections,or slipped in the middle.It has collapsible support brackets and can be folded down and stored away 
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Boxing in the wheel arch ...
the black circle on the ply lining is where the spare wheel lived. This will have to find a new home, ideally slung under the van. ...and the constructing the bed base.This will have a storage box out from the wheelarch,,another area to the fore boxing in the gas tank and heater,both accessed by lift-up lids,having pullout layers which when both pulled out form into a double bed.Finally another section to the rear,accessed both through the lift up lid,and via a door at the back, designed for shoving in any dirty/wet gear.I have used special lightweight sheets of laminated 15mm ply for the decorative panels,(these are fully structural too)and 18 mm x 44 mm pine for the structure,with 5mm ply for the lids (supported by more strips of 18 x 44 mm pine) Door hole cut out for the mini locker at teh end ,and thedoor installed. It's easy to make neat looking holes using special plastic trim round the edge. Another type of trim slots into a groove round the edge of the door. Being next to the rear doors I plan to use this locker for wet/dirty kit , eg coils of 240 V hook-up cable, and toilet cleaning materials etc. 
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15. Building furniture part 2-The Kitchen and wardrobe
This structure occupied the drivers' side of the living space in the van. The frame is constructed of 20 mm x 42 mm pine strips, with the visible edges at the front faced with stick-on veneer (chosen to match the doors).The plan is for 3 drawers * at the top, with cupboards beneath, and topped with a kitchen worktop in which will be set the gas hob and sink. The cupboards will be partly for storage but the middle cupboard will have to be occupied by the water heater, pump and associated plumbing. Space in the third cupboard is also limited due to the wheel arch .The basic structure was planned carefully bearing in mind the width of the doors I had bought.
(* actually the third "drawer" has to be a mini cupboard with flap door, as the sink would be in the way of a drawer)
(* actually the third "drawer" has to be a mini cupboard with flap door, as the sink would be in the way of a drawer)
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Careful measurement results in the kitchenette worktop having to be much narrower than in a home kitchen, just 40mm deep. This allows for the central walkway between bed/seat and the worktop, giving the ability to walk right through the van, and the walkway is also critically exactly the right width (double the width of the bed/seat)to allow the top of the bed/seat to slide out over it to make a double bed. A removable table ,set in the floor, will be usable from the bed/seat
Some builders build right across the back of the van. This gives some advantage in making maximum use of space, but my opinion is that in this case you have no back windows to look out of (either to look at the view or to aid reversing !) and you lose the versatility of being able to get in and out of the van by both the sliding door or the rear. Importantly you also lose the versatility of being able to continue to use your van to transport bulky /lengthy goods which need loading from the back. I therefore went for a walk-through layout. I imagined that parked up with a view over the beach, I will be able to sit in the van on a warm day with the doors wide open. Here's hoping!
Some builders build right across the back of the van. This gives some advantage in making maximum use of space, but my opinion is that in this case you have no back windows to look out of (either to look at the view or to aid reversing !) and you lose the versatility of being able to get in and out of the van by both the sliding door or the rear. Importantly you also lose the versatility of being able to continue to use your van to transport bulky /lengthy goods which need loading from the back. I therefore went for a walk-through layout. I imagined that parked up with a view over the beach, I will be able to sit in the van on a warm day with the doors wide open. Here's hoping!
Above you see the worktop now in place, and with 15 mm laminated ply sheets making the two sides of the wardrobe at the rear ,and the bulkhead at the fore. These bulkheads are scribed to exactly fit the curved profile of the walls. This was a somewhat challenging and time consuming task, needing a template for each bulkhead to be carefully constructed from waste 3mm ply sheet, and cardboard. Fortunately my building sheets of plywood came protected in a sandwich of waste sheets of 3mm ply, giving me plenty to use for templates, without undue waste .
First I would cut a starter template with and edge as close to the curve of the wall as I could manage .When offered up to the wall, this never fitted first time. Secondly ,I filled the gaps using multiple cardboard pieces taped onto the initial template ,and then used this to cut a second template.
When I ensured this second one fitted well, I then used it to cut the actual bulkhead from the expensive 15 mm ply sheet. The leading edges of these were faced with a curved plastic strip.
Frustratingly, not one bulkhead was the same as another presumably owing to changing profile down the van and slight warping of the ply lining walls(This included walls of the washroom-see later section).
However, once I had a couple of templates cut, I found that one of them more or less fitted in other positions and I could move straight on to the second step.
First I would cut a starter template with and edge as close to the curve of the wall as I could manage .When offered up to the wall, this never fitted first time. Secondly ,I filled the gaps using multiple cardboard pieces taped onto the initial template ,and then used this to cut a second template.
When I ensured this second one fitted well, I then used it to cut the actual bulkhead from the expensive 15 mm ply sheet. The leading edges of these were faced with a curved plastic strip.
Frustratingly, not one bulkhead was the same as another presumably owing to changing profile down the van and slight warping of the ply lining walls(This included walls of the washroom-see later section).
However, once I had a couple of templates cut, I found that one of them more or less fitted in other positions and I could move straight on to the second step.
The cupboard doors going on.The basic structure was planned with the width of the doors in mind.
The final result !
The Smev 2-burner gas hob on the left, and the Smev sink with hot and cold running water (mixer tap) on the right.
There is a 12v plug socket and a 240 V plug socket on the splashback. I used a 240V socket with stainless steel flap(actually designed for floors) to protect from splashes . Illumination is from a 12V LED striplight.
The splashback is made of 3mm aluminium sheet, cut to shape using initial templates in a similar way to the bulkheads, and then applied with heat -tolerant glue .This proved to be very easy to cut with a simple hand-held jigsaw.
I chose the cup handles for drawers and cupboards to avoid any projections that might snag clothes when moving past.
The Smev 2-burner gas hob on the left, and the Smev sink with hot and cold running water (mixer tap) on the right.
There is a 12v plug socket and a 240 V plug socket on the splashback. I used a 240V socket with stainless steel flap(actually designed for floors) to protect from splashes . Illumination is from a 12V LED striplight.
The splashback is made of 3mm aluminium sheet, cut to shape using initial templates in a similar way to the bulkheads, and then applied with heat -tolerant glue .This proved to be very easy to cut with a simple hand-held jigsaw.
I chose the cup handles for drawers and cupboards to avoid any projections that might snag clothes when moving past.
One of two drawers, fitted with soft-close mechanism, This fitted nicely under the hob.
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The cupboard under the sink. (There was no room for a drawer here)
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