Today I have mainly been hunting Saxon fortified churches.
I started with a list of eight that were mentioned in my guidebook and planned to visit three that were close to my route to Sighisoara, my next planned overnight stop. Unesco awards the whole lot World heritage site status. I did wonder how good the roads and parking might be given that these were villages and ,influenced no doubt by the mythology of Transylvania, I was half expecting mountainous narrow roads and dark impenetrable forests. Reaching the first two, close to Brasov, which were Harman (German : “Honigsburg”)and Premjer (“Tartlau”),was easy. Actually they are on the open plain next to Brasov with wide streets, well maintained lawns around the churches and parking was easy. Harman church was locked: the grumpy caretaker said it would re-open in one hour, but I had already looked round Premjer church at that point so didn’t wait, unlike the solitary Japanese tourist who had roused the caretaker with me-he was going to wait ,as he was cycling. Premjer is apparently the largest of all these churches, with also the thickest walls: The design of them seems standard-an entry gatehouse leading to a little courtyard, then though a portcullis-defended tunnel in through the wall encircling the church. This one dates from the early 13th century. All around the inside of the wall at Premjer were numbered tiny cells( 272 in all),on four levels ,reached by many sets of external wooden steps and walkways. Each cell was apparently the designated residence of one family when the populace had to spend time holed up in the fort.
I started with a list of eight that were mentioned in my guidebook and planned to visit three that were close to my route to Sighisoara, my next planned overnight stop. Unesco awards the whole lot World heritage site status. I did wonder how good the roads and parking might be given that these were villages and ,influenced no doubt by the mythology of Transylvania, I was half expecting mountainous narrow roads and dark impenetrable forests. Reaching the first two, close to Brasov, which were Harman (German : “Honigsburg”)and Premjer (“Tartlau”),was easy. Actually they are on the open plain next to Brasov with wide streets, well maintained lawns around the churches and parking was easy. Harman church was locked: the grumpy caretaker said it would re-open in one hour, but I had already looked round Premjer church at that point so didn’t wait, unlike the solitary Japanese tourist who had roused the caretaker with me-he was going to wait ,as he was cycling. Premjer is apparently the largest of all these churches, with also the thickest walls: The design of them seems standard-an entry gatehouse leading to a little courtyard, then though a portcullis-defended tunnel in through the wall encircling the church. This one dates from the early 13th century. All around the inside of the wall at Premjer were numbered tiny cells( 272 in all),on four levels ,reached by many sets of external wooden steps and walkways. Each cell was apparently the designated residence of one family when the populace had to spend time holed up in the fort.
 Premjer church |  Cells for the populace lining the interior of the wall of Premjer church.Now I know where Travelodge got the idea from. |
 Harman church |  Harman |
I then took the main road towards Sighisoara. Despite my guidebook naming just eight of them,it soon became apparent that there must be hundreds of these walled churches:they were practically falling out of the trees.There were quite a number of brown signs to historic churches in villages off the main road,which I didn’t follow up.I went through several villages on the main road where the churches were not even signed-in these cases the defensive wall was often still visible but was in ruins.
I was heading particularly for Viscri church (German: Kirchenburg)which my guidebook told me was one particularly not to miss,30km short of Sighisoara,my final desination.This is the one pictured on the relevant page in my Unesco book.It is ,however, off the main road.On the way the drive was easy on a main road,through gentle pastureland,although at one point the road wound over a hill clad in dappled forest with the wild garlic in flower .At the turn-off to Viscri ,in the village of Bunesti(“Bodendorf”), there was another walled church ,but again unfortunately locked. According to a sign on the gate I could have summoned the caretaker by phone,obviously a Saxon,Frau Wagner,but I didn’t bother and I set off up the lane to Viscri,a 7km drive.At this point I stopped for a couple of hitchhikers.Normally I wouldn’t but they were a young couple and clearly not Romanian.I guessed they were making for the church too,and I was correct.As I drive along the roads here,often people try to flag me down.They all seem to be Roma people,dark-skinned old ladies with shopping and so on.Perhaps there’s an unwritten rule that if you are Roma,you pick up any other Roma,I don’t know,and with the white van maybe I'm mistaken for a local.
In the case of this couple,my hunch was correct-one was from Italy,the other Spain and they were doing voluntary work introducing school children to healthy habits,and had been particularly recommended to visit this church.
It would have been a long walk to Viscri and back .This was an example of more remote Romania.Off the main road the community seemed wholly Roma.The lane was 80% uneven tarmac ,20% gravel and potholes ,which took a bit of negotiating.The only traffic we passed were horses and carts. One feature of Romania that is interesting is that the land is not enclosed, and traditional rights of free grazing exist. (In fact from Albania ,through northern Greece, Bulgaria and now Romania the job of shepherd is not dead. Every flock of sheep has a shepherd leaning on his stick watching them, with 3 or 4 dogs)
I read that EU regulations controlling movement of livestock are endangering the tradition of free grazing, but it doesn’t seem to have had any impact as yet so far as I can see.
As we drove very slowly towards Viscri,the lane winding through low hills of unenclosed pasture, all open, we passed one local couple with a mare and cart going the other way.The foal was running free about 50 yards away,across the grass. The carts look like big open coffins,low slung on rubber tyres.The driver sits on the front edge. If there’s a load ,the wife sits on top of it, otherwise down on the floor of the cart.Apart from the rubber I suspect the design has not altered for hundreds of years; a timeless scene.
Viscri is one of the Romanian villages where Prince Charles has bought a property:he is committed to assisting in the preserving of the traditional rural way of life
I was heading particularly for Viscri church (German: Kirchenburg)which my guidebook told me was one particularly not to miss,30km short of Sighisoara,my final desination.This is the one pictured on the relevant page in my Unesco book.It is ,however, off the main road.On the way the drive was easy on a main road,through gentle pastureland,although at one point the road wound over a hill clad in dappled forest with the wild garlic in flower .At the turn-off to Viscri ,in the village of Bunesti(“Bodendorf”), there was another walled church ,but again unfortunately locked. According to a sign on the gate I could have summoned the caretaker by phone,obviously a Saxon,Frau Wagner,but I didn’t bother and I set off up the lane to Viscri,a 7km drive.At this point I stopped for a couple of hitchhikers.Normally I wouldn’t but they were a young couple and clearly not Romanian.I guessed they were making for the church too,and I was correct.As I drive along the roads here,often people try to flag me down.They all seem to be Roma people,dark-skinned old ladies with shopping and so on.Perhaps there’s an unwritten rule that if you are Roma,you pick up any other Roma,I don’t know,and with the white van maybe I'm mistaken for a local.
In the case of this couple,my hunch was correct-one was from Italy,the other Spain and they were doing voluntary work introducing school children to healthy habits,and had been particularly recommended to visit this church.
It would have been a long walk to Viscri and back .This was an example of more remote Romania.Off the main road the community seemed wholly Roma.The lane was 80% uneven tarmac ,20% gravel and potholes ,which took a bit of negotiating.The only traffic we passed were horses and carts. One feature of Romania that is interesting is that the land is not enclosed, and traditional rights of free grazing exist. (In fact from Albania ,through northern Greece, Bulgaria and now Romania the job of shepherd is not dead. Every flock of sheep has a shepherd leaning on his stick watching them, with 3 or 4 dogs)
I read that EU regulations controlling movement of livestock are endangering the tradition of free grazing, but it doesn’t seem to have had any impact as yet so far as I can see.
As we drove very slowly towards Viscri,the lane winding through low hills of unenclosed pasture, all open, we passed one local couple with a mare and cart going the other way.The foal was running free about 50 yards away,across the grass. The carts look like big open coffins,low slung on rubber tyres.The driver sits on the front edge. If there’s a load ,the wife sits on top of it, otherwise down on the floor of the cart.Apart from the rubber I suspect the design has not altered for hundreds of years; a timeless scene.
Viscri is one of the Romanian villages where Prince Charles has bought a property:he is committed to assisting in the preserving of the traditional rural way of life
Viscri walled church
 the interior of the church-a wooden gallery |  inside the wall |
the gatehouse
Viscri has the same Saxon houses that more prosperous Premjer and Harman had,but in a much less good state of repair and just a dirt and gravel high street,and a cobbled lane leading up the hill to the church.This looked as if it could have been a medieval castle in the Welsh borderland, a historic building with a very rustic feel. I felt a bit a bit guilty that I did not buy anything from the two local women bravely trying to sell souvenirs at makeshift stalls in the lane on the way up.We were the only visitors and had to wait half an hour before the caretaker was due to open it. Inside,the church had an interesting painted wooden gallery in the nave. There was also a simple little museum of village life in one of the buildings lining the inside of the wall.It was possible to climb the tower ,up an extremely narrow staircase within the tower wall,and finally up wooden steps to a gallery at the top which presumably would have been the watchtower.I was interested in the war memorials :the WWI tablet had names of soldiers who had died fighting for the Austro-Hungarians.The WW2 one had an equal number of names,and poignantly I realised there were several women’s names,with matching surnames among the men:I guessed these must have been the Jewish community; but good reconciliation to have them on the war memorial.
On the way back, I gave my hitchers a lift all the way to Sighisoara, as they lived there. Before reaching the main road we passed the local couple with the cart and the foal coming back.
On arrival in Sighisoara I first sought out the campsite, Camping Aquaris .Despite my two camper guides saying it would be open,I had tried ringing a couple of times and was a little perturbed there was no answer.I had decided to just risk it anyway,but was dismayed to find the gates shut.A campervan heading in the opposite direction as I drove into the town should have been a warning. Inside a door was an old woman in a pink housecoat who spoke no English.I worked out that everything was shut,no toilets,water or anything:when I managed to get over that I didn’t care, she made a phone call and I was allowed to park on their small grass enclosure.The easiest £10 they’ve ever made-but I didn't mind because its big plus is that it is just 200 yards from the old Saxon citadel.
On the way back, I gave my hitchers a lift all the way to Sighisoara, as they lived there. Before reaching the main road we passed the local couple with the cart and the foal coming back.
On arrival in Sighisoara I first sought out the campsite, Camping Aquaris .Despite my two camper guides saying it would be open,I had tried ringing a couple of times and was a little perturbed there was no answer.I had decided to just risk it anyway,but was dismayed to find the gates shut.A campervan heading in the opposite direction as I drove into the town should have been a warning. Inside a door was an old woman in a pink housecoat who spoke no English.I worked out that everything was shut,no toilets,water or anything:when I managed to get over that I didn’t care, she made a phone call and I was allowed to park on their small grass enclosure.The easiest £10 they’ve ever made-but I didn't mind because its big plus is that it is just 200 yards from the old Saxon citadel.
Sighisoara's Saxon citadel
Sighisoara (Saxon name variously given as "Schassburg" or "Schespurch”) is described in my lonely planet guide as ‘so beautiful it should be arrested’.I am not sure I wholly agree, but it was indeed very pleasant. It is a Unesco World Heritage site.Like Brasov,it’s a Saxon-founded commercial town:its particular feature is the old Germanic citadel.Actually the rest of the city has no particular redeeming features ,but the citadel on a hill overlooking it certainly has some charm,having cobbled streets, bright painted old German buildings ,and several churches, one up yet a further hill, the 100 steps up covered by a wooden roof. Sighisoara is supposedly the birthplace of the infamous Vlad III 'The Impaler', otherwise known as Vlad Dracul, owing to his father's membership of the knightly order of The Dragon("Dracul")which was conferred on him by the Holy Roman Emperor .One of the brightly painted old town houses in the citadel has a plaque announcing the location.
 The covered staircase leading up the main church at the top of the citadel. |  The yellow building is announced by its plaque as the birthplace of Vlad III,the Impaler.It looks quite modest, but was owned by his father Vlad II,Prince of Wallachia. Whether Vlad III was actually born there is historically uncertain. |
After a wander through the colourful lanes I sat down for a meal in the main square ,still warm in the open at 6pm.I got chatting to a Canadian couple who sat down next to me and were on a guided tour of Eastern Europe-They were visiting Viscri tomorrow.The woman said she was an avid reader of travel autobiographies but hadn’t heard of Patrick Leigh Fermor so she wrote him down. Actually, he was on my mind because yesterday as I drove through the mountain resort of Sinaia,I had seen signs to Castelu Cantacuzino, which was one of the family homes of the Romanian Princess ,Bălaşa Cantacuzino ,a girlfriend with whom he had later shacked up .He did in fact visit Sighisoara on his journey, during a secretive motor tour conducted by his friend "Istvan"( actually Elemér von Klobusiczky) , a Romanian count ,(but of Hungarian ethnicity).Leigh Fermor's new (25 year old,married) girlfriend Xenia Csernovits de Mácsa et Kisoroszia was in tow and they were being cautious to avoid meeting anyone they knew. Strangely ,he refers to Xenia in this part of 'Between the Woods and the Water' by the code-name 'Angéla' although he names her as Xenia few pages earlier. This was to be a short-lived triste. The more lengthy affair with Princess Cantacuzino began the following year.
As his friends spoke Hungarian, Leigh Fermor refers to the town by its Hungarian name, Segesvar.
As his friends spoke Hungarian, Leigh Fermor refers to the town by its Hungarian name, Segesvar.
Sighisoara. The main square of the citadel
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