Ferrara claims to be ‘the city of the Renaissance’
This was today’s destination. The route was simple, motorway all the way, turning right at Bologna. It was a 170 km, boring, motorway drive. On joining the motorway near Rimini, I was at the start of the flat plain of the Po delta: the land was completely flat, and although on the motorway I initially passed attractive prolonged areas of orchards, coming into bloom, soon I was passing constant light industry. The Po valley is Italy’s industrial heartland, and this was in evidence by the motorway as I drove past Bologna, and Imola.
Ferrara has an historic university, founded in 1391, although this achievement is beaten by Exeter College, Oxford, which was founded in 1314 and just enjoyed its septcentennial .(Of course both these foundations are trumped by the oldest University in the world, Bologna, founded in 1088)
This was today’s destination. The route was simple, motorway all the way, turning right at Bologna. It was a 170 km, boring, motorway drive. On joining the motorway near Rimini, I was at the start of the flat plain of the Po delta: the land was completely flat, and although on the motorway I initially passed attractive prolonged areas of orchards, coming into bloom, soon I was passing constant light industry. The Po valley is Italy’s industrial heartland, and this was in evidence by the motorway as I drove past Bologna, and Imola.
Ferrara has an historic university, founded in 1391, although this achievement is beaten by Exeter College, Oxford, which was founded in 1314 and just enjoyed its septcentennial .(Of course both these foundations are trumped by the oldest University in the world, Bologna, founded in 1088)
Ferrara 's wall Ferrara is completely flat, and has a medieval grid system of streets that was laid out in the Renaissance and is apparently Italy’s only major city plan not to be based on that of a Roman city predecessor. The old city is completely surrounded by an extensive 16th century wall. Despite the busy exterior, the area within the walls is a haven of peace and even has some areas of fields and park, which were previously the historic cemetery and Jewish cemetery areas.
Along the top of the massive wall The walls themselves now have a nice cycle track all around their outside, and the bastions are a walker’s and jogger’s domain. The city is a cycling city, with old ladies sedately pedalling by on the straight, flat streets. The place reminds me of Lucca, which has a similar wall system that you can cycle round. The whole place has a different air to the hill cities I have seen lately. I checked into the municipal campsite,'Campeggio Estense' which is just outside the walls and adjacent to the university sports grounds. This seems to be off the tourist trail and there was just one other occupant of the site. The field was very boggy and wet following some recent rain, and I was warned to be careful only to park one of the bays where raised platforms of large grade gravel had recently been created. The hire of a bike was offered but I decided to walk into town. I seem to be walking at least 4-5 miles per day trekking between campsites and the sights, and I’m feeling quite fit. The blisters that appeared in the first week of walking around points of interest have long gone.
Castello Estense The iconic structure in the city is the castle, Castelo Estense. (The name has the same origins as that of the Villa d’Este in Tivoli, the Este family having seemingly got everywhere).The buildings of the city are all made of brick, there being no stone available locally, and the castle (and the city walls) are no exception. It is a strange looking construction, from a distance looking like a modern industrial site, an impression supported by its current areas of scaffolding for restoration; up close, however, you can see the decorative detail, and the moat, and inside it is decorated as a palace. The story goes that when the local people rioted in the 14th century, fed up with constant flooding (60% of the province is below sea level) the Duke temporarily placated the mob by handing over an official as a scapegoat, who was torn apart by the crowd. After this the Duke decided he need a more secure residence so the castle was built. It was another of these places which flourished in the Renaissance period, the likes of Piero della Francesca, Bellini and Leonardo da Vinci being employed by the rulers on various projects. I went around the castle, which was fairly interesting.
 The Duomo of S. Giorgio,12th century |  Piazza Trento e Trieste:The Duomo (right) and Palazzo Municipale at the end. At some stage in its history the Duomo has had a row of shops tacked onto its side. |
Other palaces and museums were unfortunately closed for the usual Monday break, and the 12th century Duomo was also closed for some sort of work ,so I had to content myself with viewing most the sights from the outside, although actually it is easy to “do “ the city in an afternoon.
In the evening, to get some “action” I headed over the road to the bar in the University sports centre and golf club, open to the public, where I had a couple of beers. At one point I went to the bar to ask if they had any crisps or nuts, and was pleasantly surprised to be given a massive salad bowl of both, for nothing, which I ate in entirety, and then back at the van later found I needed little supper . Not a very good diet!
In the evening, to get some “action” I headed over the road to the bar in the University sports centre and golf club, open to the public, where I had a couple of beers. At one point I went to the bar to ask if they had any crisps or nuts, and was pleasantly surprised to be given a massive salad bowl of both, for nothing, which I ate in entirety, and then back at the van later found I needed little supper . Not a very good diet!
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